A Conversation with Chef Ted By Rick Coates Executive Chef Ted Cizma epitomizes the modern day chef—“this is not a job, it is a lifestyle”—seven day work weeks, 15 hour days and believing that being a great chef is more than just about the food, it is about creating a “memorable experience.” He took time from his busy schedule to answer a few questions.
Northern Express: What inspired you to become a Chef? Chef Ted: Not only were my father and grandfather butchers, they often cooked meals at our large family gatherings. They were the two coolest guys I knew and seeing two strong men in the kitchen and passionate about food was an inspiration for me. They also believed in the importance of education, so I was encouraged at a young age to excel academically and go off to college. While I did that I found that when I was in college becoming an attorney didn’t appeal to me as much as I originally thought. After college I went back to the kitchen because when I started working in kitchens in junior high I loved the camaraderie of my fellow workers. I was also attracted to that immediate response you get from the guest; I loved the ability to make people happy by preparing food for them. I also love the fact that this is a business that gives you an opportunity to express yourself creatively.
NE: Why Traverse City? After all, you were in the restaurant capital of the Midwest and one of the top dining destinations in the world. Chef Ted: To use the old adage “been there done that.” I had already met a lot of my personal and professional goals and I was looking for a move. What I mean by that is I wanted something different from both a lifestyle and a work perspective. I wanted to live in the woods or at least in a smaller community. I thought I would end up in Columbus or a community like that, so Traverse City was not on my radar and I ended up here by accident. I was struck by the community on my very first visit -- the beauty, and it was a spectacular fall day. The other appeal was what the Resort was looking for and giving me total autonomy to create a brand new dining experience with Aerie (atop the Resort) was what helped to seal the deal. What I quickly found out is that living and working in Northern Michigan I have a quality of life that other chefs in places like Chicago only dream of. But it doesn’t matter if you are in Traverse City, Chicago, San Francisco or Paris -- you are only as good as your last meal.
NE: One of the first challenges new chefs to a region are faced with is staffing. With 60 employees did you experience this? Chef Ted: Yes. What I have learned after three years of being here, the labor pool is still the same. It has a lot to do with the seasonality of this region. The fact that population-wise we are the size of a small suburb in Chicago, so the labor pool is much smaller. The challenge is the employee who sees this just as a job; the passion is not there -- this is just a paycheck. So much of my work is reinforcing, reinforcing and reinforcing my principles and philosophies -- not just every so often, but every day. I try to lead by example. There certainly was an adjustment for anyone working for me because you must get on my program, and my program starts with ‘good just is not good enough’. Business as usual is no longer acceptable in this business. NE: You replaced a popular chef in Richie Beitner (now in Colorado) who had been around the Resort for several years, was well liked and won several area chef competitions. Was the transition tough for you at first? Chef Ted: I did not know Richie but from everything I have heard from my assistant to others here that he is a great chef and did a lot of wonderful things in his time here. In many ways I had advantages by being the new guy versus Richie, who worked his way up the ladder to the top spot here at the Resort. What I mean by that is one minute when you are just one of the guys on the line you are buddies with your fellow workers, and then the next minute you are their boss. That is a tough position to be in sometimes. So coming from the outside I had no preconceived notions of the staff or the operation. I was part of the new ownership and the new look that was taking place at the time. I feel the transition was very smooth.
NE: What do you consider your biggest challenge to be? Chef Ted: In the hotel business you have to be all things to all people. That makes writing a menu challenging because we get people from all over the world who have differing expectations from the dining-out experience when they are traveling. We also get the couple that this might be their big night out for an anniversary or birthday and they typically do not dine at fine dining establishments. So it is pretty challenging writing a menu that is sophisticated but not intimidating. My focus is creating a menu that is approachable and focuses on local offerings and adds to the overall experience. We are in the hospitality business and at the end of the day for the guest it is about their overall experience. It is about walking out having that warm fuzzy feeling because every aspect from the food to the service was perfect.
NE: Describe a typical day. Chef Ted (chuckles): Is there such a thing in this business? I am up at 5 a.m., have a cup of coffee, go for a run, shower, help get the kids to school, arrive to my office by 7 a.m., turn on the computer, check phone and e-mail messages, head to Sweetwater (restaurant) to see how breakfast is going and assist if needed if there is a rush. By 8 a.m. I am back in my office to review the schedule for the day with my assistant, answer e-mails, messages, work on menus for upcoming events. At 9:05 I embark on my world tour of the property stopping in at all culinary operations within the Resort to answer questions, take comments, suggestions and even criticisms from my staff. From 9:30 to 11 a.m. I attend a series of meetings with other department heads to discuss upcoming business to make sure we are all on the same page. I return to my department share info with my team. Depending on the day I may find myself from 11:30 to 1 p.m. assisting with lunch or banquet preparation or even conducting interviews with prospective staff. Much of my afternoon may be spent visiting the different departments from the bake shop to the commissary and butcher shop assisting in production, answering questions, meeting with vendors. By 5 p.m. I return to my office, close the door, and dive into the paperwork aspect of the business, menus, recipes, costing, the e-mails and messages of the day. Typically, we have conferences with banquets so by 6 p.m. I am often assisting where needed there and by 7 p.m. I head to Aerie where I work as the expeditor (standing across from the lead cook barking out the tickets as they come across the kitchen printer) and answer questions from the servers about where different food items are from. By 9:30 I head to my office, turn off my computer and lights and head home to get some sleep. But in this business, not every day is typical.
NE: What besides the obvious of consistency, quality and great service do you emphasize to your team? Chef Ted: Teamwork. I know a lot of places talk a big game but do they walk the walk? It is an essential ingredient to a successful kitchen. There are a lot of jobs that if you do not show up the work waits on your desk until you return. That is not the case in this business; the show must go on. So if we are having a large banquet with 1,000 guests and you decide not to show up for your scheduled shift, someone has to not only do their job but your job. The lack of teamwork is a morale killer in the kitchen, so it is something I emphasize and remind my staff daily.
NE: We are starting not only a new year but a new decade. What do you see as the trends for the future? Chef Ted: Most times what the general public interprets as a dining trend is more likely just a case of any number of smart (or not) chefs and restaurateurs implementing the same concepts simultaneously, almost like a self-fulfilling prophecy. As for myself, I have always endeavored to not try and “guess” what the dining public will embrace, but rather to cook things that I like—would I order this if I saw it on a menu?—because chances are that others feel the same as me. I also think that preparing food in this fashion lends it credibility and integrity. My father and grandfather taught me to respect and appreciate the food that we cook and eat, and this remains my core philosophy. One “trend” that I feel will continue to gain traction is, of course, buying local. As people become more aware of the significance of sourcing local and the financial and environmental ramifications of doing so, you will see more and more operations that had previously not considered buying local a priority, make it one. I think that because of this region’s unique demographic mix, restaurants that embrace straightforward, well-prepared food with style will be successful no matter what the trend in NYC or LA is.
NE: Speaking of other restaurants, where do you like to dine in Northern Michigan? Chef Ted: I enjoy lunch at the Wellington Street Market, I am a big fan of what they are doing at Bowers Harbor Inn/Jolly Pumpkin. For family birthdays we love the Blue Tractor. For dining out without the kids my wife and I love Stella. The rustic approach that Chef Myles takes with the menu to the wonderful wine list Amanda Danielson has assembled. I am also a big fan of what they have done at Siren Hall in Elk Rapids. We are very fortunate to have a lot of great restaurants and I am pleased to be a part of a chef community that has so many inspired individuals committed to creating an excellent culinary scene here in Northern Michigan.
Getting to know Chef Ted Cizma:
Position: Executive Chef · Grand Traverse Resort and Spa · Acme, MI · Since 2007 Employees: 60+ (depends on the season) Volume: 100,000+ plus served in 2009 Age: 46
Experience: 34 years (started in grandfather’s butcher shop at age 12) Shedd Aquarium, Chicago, Executive Chef Custom Cuisine, Chicago, Chef/Owner Elaine, Naperville, Executive Chef/Co-Owner Grace, Chicago, Executive Chef/Co-Owner The Outpost, Chicago, Executive Chef Zealous, Elmhurst, Line Cook Daniel J’s, Chicago, Sous Chef Winnetka Grill, Winnetka, Line Cook
Education: Bachelor’s Degree in Political Science, Loyola University, Chicago
Certificate from the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago
Culinary Foundations Certified Trainer with the Culinary Institute of America
Awards & Affiliations: 2009 Chef Magazine Chef of the Year Finalist (one of five) 2000 Food and Wine Magazine Best New Chef in America Chicago Tribune “Three-Star” for eight straight years Chicago Magazine “Best New Restaurant” winner three times, 1997, 2000, 2002 Honorary Chef Michigan Land Use Institute “Cooking with Kids” program Slow Food · Numerous charitable organizations in the region
Personal: Married to wife Erica, five children ages 10 months to 17 years. Lives in the woods of Williamsburg. Exercises, runs marathons, lifts weights, races motorcycles, and spends time with his family when not working.
Quote: “This business of food and hospitality lends itself to the trappings of late night partying, drugs and alcohol (bars are the only place open when you get out of work). I find myself much more efficient bypassing the trappings and focusing instead on staying fit physically and mentally by exercising and getting a good night sleep. My days at work are more enjoyable and productive coming in without a hangover.”
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