World Class Wines: Northern Michigan Vintages take the Prize

July 9, 2003

The question has never been will it happen but rather when. When will the Northern Michigan wine region crash through the tinted-glass roof that houses the numerous respectable wine regions of the United States and into the arena of world-class wine districts along the lines of Napa, Sonoma and those in France? During the past few years bullet holes have been made, casting rays of light on the region (Old Mission Peninsula and the Leelanau Peninsula). Now the hole has gotten big enough for the wines of the area to enjoy the recognition they deserve.
When winemaker Brian Ulbrich stepped to the stage Friday June 13 at the Corning Museum of Glass in New York to accept the trophy for winning the World Riesling Championships, he made the hole a lot bigger allowing plenty of light to shine on Peninsula Cellars and the area as a whole.
Not only did the Peninsula Cellars 2002 Semi-Dry Riesling beat out 141 Rieslings from six countries and 17 states, including Washington, Oregon, California and New York for the title of best Riesling in the world, it also won Best White (wine competitions usually have a “Best of Show” consisting of grouping all wines into Red, White, Sparkling, Dessert and sometimes Fruit) at the 27th annual International Eastern Wine Competition which included a field of more than 2,151 reds and whites from 16 countries.
“This is big for our area -- this is not just a win for Peninsula Cellars -- this is really a win for our region,” said Ulbrich, who at 33 is among the youngest winemakers of the region. “This is pretty amazing considering five years ago it was a challenge at times to get people to taste our wines. Now our area is winning all sorts of medals at competitions flooded with wines from the elite regions of the world.”
After accepting the trophies, Ulbrich flew home returning to work on Monday to meet his grinning sister Emily, who assists Brian.
“I knew something was up, she just kept smiling at me and then she handed me a fax,” said Ulbrich.
The fax was from The San Francisco International Wine Competition, one of the largest wine competitions in the world and considered to be one of the most prestigious in the United States. Again, Ulbrich’s and Peninsula Cellars 2002 Semi-Dry Riesling won “Best White,” a remarkable accomplishment considering over 4,000 wines were entered from 21 countries and 30 states.

DOUBLE GOLD
Winning “Best White” at two major wine competitions speaks very clearly to the emergence of Northern Michigan wines onto the world stage of prominent wine regions.
Ulbrich also took Double Gold for his Select Riesling at the San Francisco competition. Double Gold is awarded at a competition only when two sets of judges unanimously vote that the wine deserves a gold medal. All judging is done blindly and only after the final judging are the wines revealed to the judges. In the case of the most recent competitions, many judges were surely scurrying to find an atlas to locate Northern Michigan.
The win for Ulbrich and Peninsula Cellars at San Francisco also means Ulbrich will be able to travel to six major US cities with Bon Appetit as the magazine showcases the worlds top wines and spirits. The Bon Appetit Wine & Spirits Focus Tour is one of the year‘s most prestigious tasting events.
In order for a wine region to gain respectability and world-class status, multiple wineries need to succeed and that is happening here. The region actually boasts two federally designated viticulture regions: Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula. Leelanau currently has 12 wineries and Old Mission has five, with both Peninsulas expecting two or three more wineries to open in the next couple of years. Besides Ulbrich and Peninsula Cellars, several other wineries and winemakers in the area have been helping to put the area on the world wine region map.
The 2002, Chateau Grand Traverse Late Harvest Riesling won Double Gold at the International Eastern and was in the final runoff for Best White at the competition.
“It is really amazing to think that out of all the wines in the world that could beat us the one that did is literally a few hundred yards away from us,” said Sean O’Keefe of Chateau Grand Traverse. “It couldn’t have happened to a better person than Bryan Ulbrich.”

RIESLING GOLD
For O’Keefe, who along with his brother Ed run Chateau Grand Traverse, the spotlight on Rieslings from the area is welcomed. The two brothers along with their father have been championing Riesling as the grape that would most likely put the region on the map. O’Keefe’s father believed in the viability of Riesling in the area and was the first to plant the grape in the early 1970’s.
Today the two peninsulas collectively have about 200 acres of Riesling planted, about one-third of the total grapes grown in the area.
“It is great that Rieslings are getting the respect they deserve. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are the styles that usually take Best White at competitions,” said Ulbrich. “So this speaks volumes to bringing credibility to Riesling and fortunately we grow quality Riesling up here like no one else in world.”
While Old Mission Peninsula is enjoying the most recent success, the wineries of the Leelanau Peninsula too have been in the spotlight.
At the 2003 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition, earlier this spring, with more than 3,000 wines entered from around the word only 68 Double Gold’s were awarded. One of those went to Chateau Fontaine, located on the west side of Lake Leelanau, seven miles south of the Village of Lake Leelanau, for their 2001 White Riesling.
“We were barely notified of our award and we had wine shops and restaurants from all over the country wanting to order the wine,” said Lucie Matthies, who along with her husband Dan own Chateau Fontaine. “Some wanted to order as many as 20 cases, we just don’t have the inventory to sell those quantities.”
In fact Chateau Fontaine has only a few cases left of their award-winning 2001 White Riesling and just a few bottles of their 2000 White Reisling which was featured in “The Wine Spectator” last year, scoring an 83. “The Wine Spectator” appearance was a major coup for the new winery that just opened a couple of years ago. Leelanau Peninsula faired well in “The Spectator,” considered the bible of the wine industry, having 15 wines featured that totaled 45% of the wines featured from the 9-state Midwest region profiled.

WINE WITH PRIDE
What does this all mean? For the 19 wineries of the region it is the recognition that they deserve. It means when you go to an area restaurant you order a local bottle or glass of wine with pride. When you visit your favorite wine shop buy locally made wines. When family and friends visit tour the local wineries with them.
It has also meant attracting the attention of several wine critics from around the world. Many wine writers have been visiting the region to see first hand why Northern Michigan has been fairing so well at major wine competitions.
“There is a big future ahead for Northern Michigan wines,” said Dan Berger, syndicated columnist and one of the most respected wine writers in the world. “Nobody makes Rieslings with this much style. It will be less than five years before this region is known to the world.”
To get more information on the emergence of the Northern Michigan wine region visit: www.michiganwines.com or www.lpwines.com or www.wineriesofoldmission.com or visit the Traverse City Convention & Visitors Bureau at 101 W. Grandview Parkway to pick up a wine trail map. For immediate enjoyment visit your favorite wine shop or dining establishment.

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