Restaurants Recently Reviewed

Sept. 21, 2014

Since May, you’ve read (or missed!) eighteen profiles of area eateries.

As part of our RestauranTour issue, here’s a recap:

BIG BUCK BREWERY AND STEAKHOUSE

Gaylord

At its 1995 debut, Big Buck was one of the first microbreweries in northern Michigan. Since then, it’s moved into the distilling and wine businesses, enhancing its reputation for liquid products. Given Big Buck’s origin as a steakhouse, that’s still what brings many of its customers through the doors.

On the menu: microbrews, house-distilled liquors, house-made wines. Food-wise, there’s steaks, ribs, chicken, shrimp or burgers served with sauces enhanced by Big Buck beverages.

Signature items: beef lovers reign supreme here. They can opt for sirloin, Delmonico, tenderloin filet, or prime rib. The beer wings are spun in Big Buck’s own beer buffalo sauce, while Scottish eggs are wrapped in chorizo sausage, breadcrumbs and onions, served with a house brown mustard.

Most Popular Microbrew: Big Buck Naked Contact: (989) 732-5781. Online: BigBuck.com or visit them on Facebook.

SUGARFOOT SALOON

Cedar

Sugarfoot developed a reputation with Sugarloaf Resort patrons and staff, as well as area residents. When the resort closed its doors in 2000, traffic slowed, and owners Pete and Karen Bardenhagen eventually moved to the west side of Traverse City.

However, by May 2009 they were back in their familiar territory of Cedar, serving their Mexican favorites.

On the menu: chalupas, tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, fajitas, tostadas, nachos and more. These selections are fleshed out with ribs, walleye, and northern Michigan favorites like perch, prime rib, and whitefish. There are also a host of burgers and sandwiches, appetizers and salads.

Signature items: broasted chicken, ribs, and the wet burrito served four ways–the original, sirloin tip, chicken, or rice and beans. Karen Bardenhagen recommends the whitefish. "My favorite was the almondine, but then I tried the blackened whitefish and I loved it," she says.

Contact: (231) 228-6166. Online: sugarfootsaloon.net or visit them on Facebook.

ROAST AND TOAST

Petoskey

After opening in May 1993, owners Bob and Mary Keedy enjoyed a banner summer season, but were warned that the post-summer drop off would be huge. "On Labor Day all the locals were in. It was like a party with a real nice vibe," said Mary. It was then that they started to believe the naysayers might be proven wrong. "We get teens, moms with young kids, business people. People can come in alone or come and check their email," she says.

On the menu: a host of coffee drinks and syrups to enhance them, tea (hot and iced), fresh squeezed lemonade, a wide selection of sodas and fruit juices, yogurt-based fruit smoothies, and French and Italian sodas. Choose from four soups daily, salads, sandwiches and wraps. There’s even a dinner menu featuring chicken pot pie, roasted vegetable lasagna, spinach ricotta stuffed shells, and shepherd’s pie.

Signature items: the Dirty Irishman–a blend of coffee and espresso with crème de cocoa and Irish crème syrups, topped with whipped cream. Favorite comestibles are the turkey avocado club and the Lake Street salad. Mary says the secret to both is the house-made dressing.

Contact: (231) 347-7767. Online: RoastAnd-Toast.com or visit them on Facebook.

BUD’S

Interlochen

Bud and Grace Schroeder’s Interlochen gas station was one of the area’s first convenience stores, winning over customers with Grace’s homemade pies and pastries. Longtime customer and new owner, Sue Bowen, reinvented this local gem with the donuts and pastries so many people remembered. She upped the ante by stocking the new Bud’s with specialty drinks, ice cream, salads, sandwiches, and even a retail shop featuring art, unique gift items and novelties.

On the menu: sandwiches include chicken salad, egg salad, Cuban, Philly steak, wraps, paninis, and burgers. There are also salads, four daily soups, and a breakfast menu with sandwiches, breakfast pizza, pancakes, French toast, and skillets.

Signature items: the Zinger Salad is the most popular with its mix of avocado, bean and corn salsa, and salsa ranch on romaine. General Manager Toni Turczyn calls the Landing "my go-to salad," with its savory mix of asiago cheese, bacon, egg, and green onion on a bed of romaine and Gorgonzola ranch. Other favorites are the Backwoods Burger with grilled onions, crimini mushrooms and melted provolone cheese, and the occasional special Spinach Artizza Flatbread with seasoned chicken, spinach-artichoke dip and Colby-Jack cheese.

Contact: (231) 276-9090. Online: BudsIsBack.com or visit them on Facebook, or Twitter.

REFLECT BISTRO AT CAMBRIA SUITES

Traverse City

When Scott Neumann, formerly of Traverse City’s Scott’s Harbor Grill, signed on to run the restaurant at the Cambria Suites hotel, he assumed he would be working under a set of corporate guidelines. So much for assumptions! Cambria Suites owner Alex Mowczan gave Neumann complete freedom to create Reflect Bistro in his own image. The menu is diverse with many of the favorites from Scott’s former eatery.

On the menu: Philly Cheesesteak eggrolls, black bean nachos, coconut fried shrimp, sesame seared ahi tuna, ribs and teriyaki-enhanced beef tenderloin kabobs. Salads include the Ensalada Cancun (a former Scott’s Harbor Grill favorite) with grilled chicken, black beans, olives, radishes and jicama on mixed greens with hard-cooked egg, hot and sweet maple bacon, and Gorgonzola dressing. Featured sandwiches are the ahi tuna grill, grilled turkey club, and a half-pound burger.

Signature items: french-fried pitas with spinach artichoke dip is the perfect starter for a group.

Neumann says the most popular entrée is the salmon, which is grilled, basted with a maple glaze reduction, enhanced with chili pepper flakes, ginger and garlic, and finished in the oven. The bison meatloaf is "an up-northy kind of thing. It sells like crazy." For slightly smaller appetites: the lettuce wraps with stir-fried chicken, Asian vegetables and cashews.

Contact: (231) 778-9000. Online: TraverseCityCambriaSuites.com or visit their Facebook page.

THE FRANKLIN

Traverse City

The Franklin’s modern industrial feel is warmed by brick, wood and cork, while walls of windows wash both dining levels in natural light. The rooftop deck overlooking downtown gives customers great views of street activity and the sparkling waters beyond. After dark, a canopy of lights hanging from the steel beam structure illuminates the deck. If it’s windy, cool, or simply full on the deck, you can still enjoy the view from inside through moveable window walls.

On the menu: The Franklin is multi-ethnic: Tex-Mex (lamb burger with a jalapeño-mint chimichurri, stuffed poblanos), German (spaetlze and flammkuchen, a flatbread with caramelized onions, quark and speck), Asian (G’s Mushrooms with shochu vinaigrette), and distinctly American (the house hot dog served with yellow mustard and Detroit chili). Ingredients like salted hazelnut brittle, cherry-pine nut relish, and mint salsa verde enliven the veggies.

Signature items: the cheese melt is an upscale grilled cheese with Muenster, roasted poblano, Mexican oregano, and tomato jam on a flavorful focaccia. The Bibb salad has slices of Granny Smith apples, fennel, honey and lemon vinaigrette sprinkled with Manchego cheese. The corn esquites (warm corn salad) are served with aleppo pepper for a little kick. The cheese curds are "a little bit of heaven," according to waitress Sheila Czerniak.

Contact: (231) 943-2727. Online: The- FranklinTC.com or visit their Facebook page.

SAM’S GRACES

Harbor Springs

Chad and Victoria Conklin met while working at the Coldfoot Café in the tiny Alaska town of the same name 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle. The Michigan natives ultimately moved home to escape temperatures plummeting to 65 degrees below zero. The bakery is named for Victoria’s father Sam Founteas. Sam was an avid gardener and the couple decided to honor his spirit by joining his name with the three Graces of Greek mythology: the women who attended nature and agriculture and brought joy, charm and beauty to the world.

On the menu: breakfast and lunch items and a rotating selection of baked goods. Early eaters can opt for Eggs Benedict prepared with smoked ham, smoked trout, or a vegetarian version with quinoa patties. An Italian breakfast sandwich includes a fried egg, fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, and sopressata (Italian salami). Lunch offers salads, five different baguette sandwiches, and crispy flatbread pizzas.

Signature items: the number one seller among pizzas is the margherita, boasting mozzarella, basil, and tomatoes. Its slightly salted crust complements the savory roasted tomatoes. "People have a pizza and split a salad.

Roasted beet salad and the white pizza, that’s the best," says Chad Conklin. For a spicy treat, the sopressata sandwich has pecorino cheese, roasted peppers, basil and aioli dressing up the peppery salami. In the morning, baked goods rapidly disappear. "We make two dozen of everything and they sell out quickly," says Chad.

Contact: (231) 242-1230. Online: Sams- Graces.com or visit their Facebook page.

LEGS INN

Cross Village

The Polish-themed eatery has been owned by the Smolak family for more than 80 years. Today it’s run by George and Kathy Smolak and their sons Mark and Chris. "We’ve been running it day to day for 28 years; altogether, I’ve been part of it for 51 years," says George.

Kathy says their sons are the future of the restaurant. "They’re the ones bringing new ideas," she says.

On the menu: appetizers include pierogi stuffed with beef and pork, potato and cheese, or sauerkraut and mushrooms. Golabki (cabbage rolls stuffed with beef, pork, rice and/or vegetables), nalesniki (crepes with apples or farmer’s cheese), and the Old World Hunter’s Feast are among the Polish entrées. The Hunter’s Feast combines goulash and Bigo’s Hunter’s Stew, a blend of sauerkraut, mushrooms, cabbage, pork, beef and kielbasa. If your appetite doesn’t lean in the Polish direction, there’s whitefish, grilled chicken, burgers, and buffalo wings.

Signature items: Zurek is a hearty blend of Polish sausage, hard-boiled eggs, and red potatoes in a meat and rye stock. The vegetable nalesniki are crepes containing a delicious mix of grilled, seasoned vegetables, topped with a homemade dilled white sauce. If you want it all, the Taste of Poland features kielbasa, golabki, and pierogi. For dessert, try fruit pierogi topped with lemon and sour cream drizzle or Berry Szarlotka, a Polish crumble cake with apples, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries and blueberries.

Contact: (231) 526-2281. Online: LegsInn.com or visit their Facebook page.

HARVEST

Traverse City

Simon Joseph was one of the most vocal champions of food trucks in Traverse City and his Roaming Harvest was one of the first trucks to do business as part of the Little Fleet. His new brick and mortar restaurant, Harvest, embraces the industrial aesthetic with alternate slate blue and brick on the walls, setting off corrugated steel and plywood. The dining area comprises only about a third of the building. "Two-thirds is the kitchen. This is functioning as a commissary for the truck," explains Joseph.

On the menu: both restaurant and truck embrace the farm-to-table movement. What is on the day’s menu depends on what ingredients are available. While you’re likely to see what Harvest dubs "Street Food Favorites" like the Korean Beef Tacos, Old #12 Hash, and falafel most of the time, other items come and go. "People crave the Korean Beef Tacos, but I don’t want the menu to always be the same. People will get bored," Joseph says.

Signature items: Joseph loves the fresh chicharrones (pork rinds) with chili lime sauce. The Summer Harvest Salad includes a variety of greens and heirloom tomatoes with goat cheese and a superb rhubarb vinaigrette. The Flash Fried Street Beets are roasted beet cubes fried, salted, and served with fresh wasabi mayo for dipping. The Korean Lettuce Wraps include sticky rice, sweet soy sauce, and zippy kimchi (spicy pickled vegetables).

Contact: (231) 486-6037. Online: Roaming- Harvest.com or visit their Facebook page.

CRU CELLARS

Frankfort

Cru is an offshoot of Jen and Torrey Bingham’s award-winning Tampa wine bar of the same name. Like its predecessor, it’s more than just a wine bar. Not only does it serve wine, but beer and mixed drinks, as well. Moreover, it boasts a complete menu, from appetizers to entrées, and is also a retail wine shop.

On the menu: wines from the Leelanau Peninsula, California, Australia, Italy, France, Spain and Greece. Their award winning baked and grilled flatbreads feature fig jam and crispy prosciutto; sliced skirt steak and caramelized onions; salami, prosciutto, basil, and fresh mozzarella; or the favorite roasted mushroom and goat cheese with pesto and pine nuts. Small plates, sandwiches, and salads round out the menu. Entrees, available after 5pm, include braised short ribs with parmesan polenta, cedar plank salmon, and walleye with clams and chorizo.

Signature items: "Nobody orders chicken in a restaurant because it’s boring," says Torrey. To shatter this stereotype, Cru’s is soaked for 36 hours in a lemon, thyme and white wine brine, which keeps it moist and flavorful after roasting. Torrey also points to the burgers as prime fare. E2 is one of the most requested, and best, wine labels on the menu. Jen also suggests the Pinot Noir and Pinot Grigio from Leelanau’s Blustone Vineyards.

Contact: (231) 399-0200. Online: CruCellarsMichigan.com or visit their Facebook page.

QUAY

Charlevoix

Charlevoix native Eric Hodgson wanted to give his hometown a destination restaurant. Eric and his wife Dana, who already own three establishments on Beaver Island, opened Quay with that in mind. The second and third floors overlook the park and Round Lake beyond, creating what Hodgson calls "a neat experience for diners."

On the menu: small plates and luncheon items like whitefish tostadas with cucumber salsa; crab cakes with cilantro aioli; tabouleh with red quinoa, arugula, and grape tomatoes; and duck confit flatbread. Sandwiches include a crispy shrimp po’boy and Italian muffuletta with salami, mortadella and capicola. Entrées like ribeye with sweet potato and Gorgonzola gratin and grilled adobo pork tenderloin with cornbread panzanella and smoky citrus barbecue sauce entice.

Signature items: the watermelon gazpacho is enhanced by feta cheese, vanilla bean oil and fresh mint. The Quay Burger features foie gras, arugula, blackberry relish, and caper scallion aioli.

"Many people have said this is the best whitefish they’ve had," says Hodgson, pointing to the whitefish Provencal with tomatoes, artichokes, caper berries and crispy rice cake. "My favorite is the halibut. It’s wonderful. And I’m a lamb chop fanatic."

Contact: (231) 547-7450. Online: QuayRestaurantAndTerraceBar.com or visit their Facebook page.

THE ROADHOUSE

Benzonia

People return again and again for The Roadhouse’s Mexican favorites, playful and festive décor, and friendly staff. The bar showcases 20 tequila selections and an extensive multi-level deck doubles the seating area, offering a restful, outdoor retreat. In the summer, the deck hosts live music Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. In the winter, the music moves indoors one night a week. On the menu: appetizers include bean dip with cheese and chorizo, queso dip with cilantro, and Miguel’s award-winning wings.

Popular entrées are chimichanga; fajitas with sizzling steak, chicken, vegetables or shrimp; Cabo salmon with mango salsa and grilled asparagus; enchiladas with chicken, pork, beef, cheese, vegetables, or crab; plus tacos, burritos and tamales.

Signature items: Barb’s Legendary Empanadas are Chilean pastries filled with seasoned mashed potatoes, green peppers, onions, corn, Monterey Jack cheese and cream cheese. Best of the quesadillas are the vegetarian and the Tinga with its spicy chicken sautéed with chipotle, onions, and fresh avocado. The bestseller is the Roadhouse Skillet: grilled peppers and onions mixed with tequila-marinated steak and jerk chicken, topped with Monterey Jack cheese.

Contact: (231) 882-9631. Online: RoadhouseSalsa.com or visit their Facebook page.

SERIOUS DONUT

Traverse City

Tom Smith has been following the donut industry for years. As he neared retirement from the engineering sector, he decided it was the perfect time to open the Serious Donut Company. "If I waited any longer, I wouldn’t do it," he says. The business occupies a small space on Garfield just north of South Airport Road, across from Copper Falls Steakhouse.

On the menu: all donuts are named after Traverse City or northern Michigan locations. For example, Boardman Tubers (glazed donuts), Cherry Capital Cinnamon Rolls, Old Town Sour Cream, Kingsley Kriss Kross, Rapid City French Crullers, and the list goes on. Flavors are limited only by the imagination.

Signature items: the Northport Nauti, dubbed "Death By Chocolate" by the staff, is a long john filled with either Holland cream or custard. The Open Space Orange Juice Donut is made with orange juice in the batter and topped with a tangy orange glaze. The Glen Arbor Espresso adds espresso to the chocolate filling, giving it a kick rivaled only by the Glen Haven Caramel Espresso Macchiato. The Mackinaw Bacon Maple Long John is topped with a strip of bacon, providing that familiar sweet/salty breakfast taste.

Contact: (231) 943-1372. Online: Serious- DonutCo.com or visit their Facebook page.

EDANY BLT

Traverse City

When Eddie and Dani Walker decided to open a restaurant, they combined their own first names and added their concept of breakfast and lunch to eat-in, as well as to go. But not everyone understood this. Instead, the name implied the existence of a certain sandwich. "People said, "˜Wow, you must have a great BLT.’ We didn’t even have it on the menu," says Eddie. In short order, they crafted a bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich with pesto mayo and mozzarella cheese.

On the menu: sandwiches like the Cuban Dip (pulled pork, smoked ham, and mojo onions) and a shrimp po-boy, either spicy or lemon garlic, complemented by tomato and scallions. Salads include the BLT with burrata cheese, arugula, and tomato bruschetta and the Vegan with sprouted lentils, quinoa, carrot chips, and lollipop kale. Small plates include calamari fries and mac and cheese with smoked Gouda and bacon. Daily specials typically include a quiche.

Signature items: vegetable lasagna with traditional tomato sauce that is sweet, rather than savory, with butternut squash and portabellas. The asparagus salad features roasted asparagus mixed with English peas, pickled shallots, arugula and Parmesan cheese and is topped with a poached egg that, when cracked open, creates its own dressing. The owners are very high on the calamari fries. "We have squid steak and cut it into fries. It’s simple, but it’s tasty," says Eddie.

Contact: (231) 486-6550. Online: visit their Facebook page.

BENNETHUM’S NORTHERN INN

Gaylord

For years, Jeff and Cheryl Bennethum ran Jeffrey’s Northern Inn in Ferndale, known for its rustic décor and a menu harkening to the far-distant north woods. They eventually bought a second home in Gaylord, moving north full time in 1999. In 2006, the family bought Schlang’s Bavarian Inn, renaming it Bennethum’s Northern Inn. Their son Josh is now executive chef, general manager and an investor, and daughters Amy and Rebekah are also on staff.

On the menu: regional favorites such as perch, walleye and whitefish. Specialties include Alpen Chicken Sauté, Classic Austrian Schnitzel, Rib Eye Steak and Kaesespaetzle (German-style macaroni and cheese), Spinach Tenderloin Fettuccini with mushrooms and onions, Creole Shrimp Fettuccini with fire-roasted peppers and crispy fried leeks, and Bourbon Street baby back ribs.

Signature items: "Josh developed a house bread that’s so popular. It’s dripping with butter and Parmesan," Jeff says. J o s h talks about the pasta and pizza. "We make our own pizza dough and we make all our pasta each day from scratch," he says. Among the entrées, the beef and fish remain top selections. "The steaks have had a great following since day one, and our fresh local fish is a signature dish," says Josh.

Contact: (989) 732-9288. Online: www.Bennethums.com or visit their Facebook page.

VIVIO’S

Indian River

Built as the Gypsy Tavern in 1938, John and Theresa Vivio purchased the restaurant in 1952, establishing it as the Italian gem it is today. After working there for many years, Kurt and Angie Oswald bought the beloved local institution in 2000. "At Vivio’s, there are so many traditions with families that come here," says Kurt.

On the menu: veal and chicken scaloppini are served on polenta and topped with a red or white wine gravy. Veal and chicken Parmigiana are baked with plenty of mozzarella cheese. Then there are the pastas: chicken cacciatore, lasagna (both meat and vegetarian), spaghetti, manicotti, mostaccioli. From the waters, whitefish is baked or fried, perch is sautéed or fried, and there are frog legs and salmon. Grilled pork chops, steak and chicken round out the menu.

Signature items: according to Oswald, Vivio’s reputation has been built on the quality of its pizza. Pepperoni, sausage, and mushrooms top the list of favorite ingredients, but Vivio’s also offers feta cheese, artichoke hearts, even shrimp. Other favorites include the most American of pastas. "The spaghetti is phenomenal. We make all our sauces," he says. He also points to the Shrimp Sicilian as a winner.

Contact: (231) 238-9471. Online: Viviosfood.com.

MR. C’S PUB & GRILL

Williamsburg

Originally a steak focused restaurant, the building has also been a poker club and a thrift shop. Owner Chris Copeland saw the vacant building as an opportunity to create a vibrant restaurant for locals and visitors alike. "Chris wanted to have something for the local Williamsburg area where people could pop in and have some great food and great drinks," says manager Charles "Bud" Rouse.

On the menu: traditional and upscale pub fare, such as burgers, chili-stuffed potato skins, and hanger steak. Creative menu twists include baked goat cheese, smoked salmon paté, smoked blue cheese salad with "hobo caviar," smoked pork nachos, and flatbread pizzas with a host of toppings.

Signature items: the number one choice is the Drowned Beef sandwich–shaved prime rib with jalapeño horseradish cream, crispy fried onions and cheese. The wings are always popular, served with a variety of flavors and sauces: dry rub, garlic Parmesan, Teriyaki, and Rouse’s own honey hot sauce. Among the entrées, Rouse says the best is an item that wasn’t even on the original menu. "The prime rib was a Saturday special," says Rouse. "We sell out of it every night."

Contact: (231) 267-3300. Online: MrCsPubandGrill.com or visit their Facebook page.

BAYVIEW GRILLE

Frankfort

After retiring, Jill Weide and Dale Evans decided to relocate from Virginia to northern Michigan. "I’d always wanted to open a restaurant," Evans says. They came across a small cafe for sale overlooking Betsie Bay between Frankfort and Elberta. "We loved the view," says Weide. In the years since, they’ve added a covered porch in front, secured a liquor license, and focused on breakfast and lunch.

On the menu: at breakfast, the usual egg and pancake suspects, plus house-made corned beef hash, biscuits and gravy, crab Eggs Benedict, and breakfast sandwiches. Lunch features burgers, a crab cake sandwich, pulled pork, Grille Mediterranean (roasted red peppers, marinated portabellas, spinach and fresh mozzarella with Gorgonzola pear dressing), even Baja fish tacos.

Small plates include calamari; mussels; flatbread pizza; and corn dog dippers, a dozen golden brown mini corndogs with honey mustard sauce.

Signature items: omelette favorites are the Bayview Spinach with tomato, avocado, bacon, basil, havarti and feta cheeses; and the Pure Michigan Omelette with asparagus, mushrooms, dill, Hollandaise sauce, and salmon.

The beignets are crispy on the outside, melt-in-your-mouth inside. Even the four-berry jam is made in-house. At lunchtime, burgers trump all. The favorite is the 50/50 burger: bacon and beef mixed together. The smoked turkey is also very popular.

Contact: (231) 352-8050. Online: bayview-Grille.com or visit their Facebook page.