March 29, 2024

Hearth and Vine a Hidden Jewel

Oct. 19, 2014

Hearth and Vine takes the farm to table concept seriously. And why wouldn’t it, with the farm right outside its door? Many of the items on the menu are derived from the animals and vegetables that call the farm home, much to Chef Jonathan Dayton’s delight.

"We rotate as much as we can from what’s in season," says Dayton.

So, in the summer you have berries, in the fall, apples. The farm may even provide fresh beef or lamb chops.

"We have our own pigs, sheep, turkeys.

Chicken for eggs. We lean on our products a lot," says Dayton.

Even when they don’t, they still try to source everything they can locally, like whitefish, lake trout and walleye from Carlson’s in Leland and rabbits from just down the road.

THE SCENE

Situated on the grounds of Black Star Farms, the cozy restaurant has an old-world ambience with rich dark woods and views of the barns outside.

Dayton says the restaurant has changed every year throughout its five-year history, from its modest beginnings as a supplement to the farm and the Bed & Breakfast to a café with wine and spirits. He intends for that growth to continue.

"As a chef, I’d like to see it evolve to more of a restaurant. It’s gone from a bakery and kind of a vegetable farm stand to more of a café feel with salads and pizzas. This winter I’d like to get more dinners and do more of a restaurant feel."

THE MENU

Small plates feature olives (with roasted garlic olive oil, chili flakes, rosemary and preserved lemon), nuts (with honey, salt and smoked serrano pepper) and a rabbit confit (with mustard, pickled vegetables and grilled focaccia).

Salads include a caprese and a beet salad with both red and golden beets roasted and complemented with spinach and goat cheese.

A chicken wrap with fall greens, veggie burger sliders with quinoa and lemon chive remoulade and a beef brisket with red pepper, onion and cabbage are among the sandwich choices.

Pizzas include the Bianca, with fresh mozzarella and caciocavallo cheeses and kalamata olives; potato, with raclette, fromage blanc and caramelized onions; and funghi, with Roquefort, pine nuts and smoked tomato sauce.

Seasonal offerings run the gamut. The harvest dinners feature six courses paired with Black Star Farms’ wines, Grand Traverse Distillery spirits, seasonal vegetables, fruits and meats. A recent fall harvest dinner featured a variety of apple-inspired pairings.

THE BEST

A different day, a different quiche. Whatever the day’s specialty, the tastes meld together atop a flaky, flavorful crust.

A surprise is the grilled apple salad. An apple is halved, grilled, then served with candied walnuts, tarragon and–from the savory side of the street–crisp prosciutto and radish sprouts.

Among the rotating soups, the squash bisque and brussel-potato reflect the season.

While the staff recommends the Bianca pizza, the squash pizza is a delight for all the senses. It’s colorful and delicious with butternut squash, roasted red peppers, corn and leeks.

Dayton says the lamb shank is one of his favorites. "It’s braised in hard apple cider with cinnamon. That tastes fantastic," he says.

If your taste buds demand something sweet, there’s no shortage of desserts and pastries available. Try the pumpkin cookies and the truffles.

THE REST OF THE STORY

Dayton says the ability to use fresh products is a joy for him. "We make a lamb ketta–[lamb] loin wrapped in its belly–with a spice rub, then roast it in the oven," he says. "We cure our own bacon and pancetta and pork jowl."

The fun doesn’t stop with the meat.

Among his innovations is a verjus vinaigrette for salad dressings made from pressed unripened wine grapes. The juice is not fermented and it lends a unique flavor to olive oil-based dressing.

Despite its variety of foods and its growth since he arrived five years ago, Dayton believes Hearth and Vine is still in its infancy.

"It’s very unknown, though it’s been five years. It’s a pretty cool place to be," says Dayton.

THE SKINNY

The pizzas are $14, with additional meats available at $3 each. Small plates start at $7, salads at $8. Sandwiches begin at $9. Wines start at $6 a glass.

The six course harvest dinners are $100, which includes tax and tip.

Hearth and Vine is open Thursday through Sunday, from noon to 7pm. They hope to expand to later dinner hours beginning in November.

It is located at 10844 East Revold Road in Suttons Bay. Online, visit: BlackStarFarms.com or its Facebook page. Call (231) 944-1297.

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