Martha Sets the Table in Suttons Bay

March 1, 2015

Six years after opening, Martha’s Leelanau Table continues to evolve, much like the restaurant’s namesake herself.

Years in the food industry have given Martha Ryan well-rounded experience from which to draw. Add her adventurous, eager-to-learn spirit that’s fueled by a passion for food and travel, and you have a recipe for success.

For example, she recently took her staff to Right Brain Brewery to sample some of its beers, which she now plans to carry in the restaurant. She’s also crafting a menu with foods to complement Belgian beers for an upcoming theme event.

Her approach has found favor with the loyal patrons of her restaurant and locals, visitors, and even renowned chef Mario Batali, have hailed her creativity as exceptional.

THE SCENE

When Ryan first moved to the area, she began waiting tables at the Leland Lodge, then later at The Cove. Then, for 20 years she was the head of food service at Leland Schools, but during her summers off, she continued to work in area restaurants.

After retiring from her school position, Ryan began a six-year tenure at Leland’s Stone House Bread café. During this time, owner Bob Pisor and his wife Ellen hired Ryan to cater the multiple events of their daughter’s wedding weekend. In attendance was Ellen’s sister, Alice Waters, local food movement pioneer and creator of the famed California cuisine restaurant Chez Panisse.

Ryan began location scouting for her own eatery with friends and business partners Judy and Bruce Balas. They had their eye on the former Café Bliss – now North Country Grill and Pub – when Judy pointed to a house in desperate need of some tender loving care. "Judy said, "˜What about the place across the street?’ I said, "˜What are you thinking?’" recalls Ryan.

A closer look revealed great bones of a foreclosed property, so they decided to move ahead. Refurbishing took a full year and Martha’s Leelanau Table opened in July 2008.

Ryan says it’s the perfect size for her, with a capacity of 50 inside and another 30 or so able to be seated on the patio. The patio area is a favorite spot in summer, while the interior is warm and cozy, but not cramped, with high ceilings and lots of natural light.

THE MENU

Martha’s Leelanau Table offers an imaginative variety of dishes. Starters include Leelanau fondue made with Leelanau raclette with wine, served with bread and apples; a smoked salmon, cheddar and potato gratin; and both a salad and soup of the day.

Dinners include pan-roasted salmon with lentils and mustard herb butter; Thai curry mussels and shrimp; grilled hanger steak with salsa verde and buttermilk mashed redskins; seafood risotto; and roasted duck breast with pomegranate-chili sauce and wild rice.

Sunday brunch specialties include eggs served a variety of ways: Jonesy’s Special, with greens, shiitake mushrooms, pesto and tomato on sourdough bread; baked eggs St. Tropez, scrambled eggs with fresh spinach, bacon, Shetler’s cream and Parmesan cheese baked and served with Italian toast; and Costa Rican rice and beans with fried eggs, garlic, cumin and red peppers.

There’s also a choice of sides like country-fried potatoes served in a black skillet with onions, peppers and cheese, and blueberry pancakes with Leelanau maple syrup.

Martha’s also offers complete bar service, with wine, beer and cocktails. As the weather warms, hours will again expand to encompass breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. Lunch specialties will include soups, salads and a variety of hot panini sandwiches.

THE BEST

Named for a former nearby resident, the Happy Rooster is always a popular choice –a bacon and egg platter layered with pesto, tomato and arugula on sourdough. The Greek is another beloved brunch specialty, a spinach and feta phyllo pastry topped with eggs, tomato and arugula with shredded Parmesan.

At dinner, the sirloin is among the top choices, though Ryan points toward the Lake and Steak special, with sirloin and whitefish from Carlson’s.

She says the crab cakes are also a resounding favorite. "I’m known for my crab cakes," she says, which are available both as an entrée and an appetizer. "I use beautiful lump crab, a minimum of bread crumbs, a little Old Bay seasoning, a little Worcestershire, some mayo and some Dijon mustard."

THE REST OF THE STORY

While familiar with the front of the house, Ryan says she never worked on the line before opening her restaurant. Now she works alongside her son Matt, creating dishes for her customers.

The creative process begins as she crafts the seasonal menus, which Ryan does three or four times a year.

"Making menus is my passion," she says.

This winter’s menus will be enhanced by a cookbook dinner series, including selected recipes by famed chef/authors Mario Batali, George Mendes and Emeril Lagasse.

Ryan’s business got a boost when Batali, a summer resident of the region, began to sing her praises. He cited her restaurant in Esquire magazine’s spring 2009 Big Black Book issue and has been generous with his praise for Martha’s since.

Another of her passions is travel and Ryan is hosting a trip to Greece next month and then an autumn trip to Portugal. Her travels abroad fuel her never-ending quest for new and exciting dishes. Martha’s also hosts live music every Friday in the summer and every other Friday in the off-season.

THE SKINNY

Breakfasts start at $9, sides at $5. At dinnertime, starters and salads are $8 and up, while entrées are $19 and up. The prix fixe dinners from 5 to 6pm are $17.

Martha’s is currently open Fridays and Saturdays for dinner from 5 to 9pm and Sundays for brunch from 9am to 2pm. It’s also available for private parties and special events.

Martha’s is located at 413 N. St. Joseph Street in Suttons Bay. For more information, call (231) 271-2344 or visit MarthasLeelanauTable.com or the restaurant’s Facebook page.