Smoke And Porter Public House Fired Up

Oct. 30, 2015

Along US-31 on Traverse City’s east side, a boldly lettered black-and-white sign heralds “Smoke and Porter Public House.” Must be a barbecue place, right?

CLEARING THE AIR

Smoke and Porter’s Henry Bisson, chef and co-owner with his wife Mindy, admits that since opening in August, “there has been some confusion as to who we are and what we are about. Although we’re an independent restaurant, since we’re on this popular tourist strip, some people think we’re a chain — and of course with the name, they also think barbecue. We cook with wood and fire, but it goes beyond barbecue. Barbecue is a technique — it’s not a dish or a sauce, it’s cooking with wood. So in technical terms, are we a barbecue place? Yes, but not in the sense of southern or Texas barbecue.”

Bisson, a graduate of the Great Lakes Culinary Institute and former head chef at Lulu’s in Bellaire, said the idea for a restaurant like this had been rolling around in his head for years. “I knew from the beginning that the name would be something with smoke, and that wood-fired cooking would be the theme.” The elemental nature of that whole concept appealed to him.

As for porter, that part of the name was originally based on the French porter (pronounced “por-tay”), meaning to carry. “The ‘smoke’ is our kitchen, and the ‘porter’ is our service staff,” said Bisson. The descriptor “public house” is very important, too, he explained: “We’ve tried to make a diverse menu that will appeal to a wide range of people…there’s a certain thing about the community aspect of a restaurant that we want to communicate — hospitality goes beyond simply taking care of guests while they’re at the table.” A rotating family-style “supper from the pit,” a daily brunch (tip: house-made sausage!), and a happy hour with a hearty menu reinforce the sense of community.

“WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN”

Adding to the welcoming feeling of Smoke and Porter is an airy, open interior with a refined, modern-industrial vibe. The design all began with the beer tap system behind the bar, said Bisson: “It’s old school, a board bolted to the wall, with wroughtiron tubing.” That tap, along with the repurposed materials used throughout the bar and dining room — logs from a rustic cabin, floor boards from the Music House Museum, salvaged and scorched wood for the tabletops — set the tone for the front of the house.

WHERE THERE’S SMOKE…

Smoke and Porter incorporates smoking techniques into some component of every dish on the menu. That said, sometimes the smoke flavor is so subtle that you might not even identify it as such.

He cites the prime rib as an example.

“I always thought it was a bit of a cliché — you know, 1980s/90s style — but cooking it at a low temperature with that little bit of smoke in there…it’s delicious.”

The menu is printed daily and regularly features new items, like the current lamb bolognese. “We smoke lamb shanks, pull the meat to make a sauce, and serve it over house-made pappardelle with burrata,” said Bisson. Another recent addition: smoked short rib pierogis, served with crème fraiche, sauerkraut, Brussels sprouts and black garlic.

Seasonal greens and vegetables — as with other menu ingredients, sourced locally wherever possible — feature prominently at Smoke and Porter. “We also incorporate acidic sauces and salad dressings to add a refreshing element to the plate,” Bisson noted. “None of these are simply garnishes — they bring something to the dish overall.”

Although he thinks the word “craft” is thrown around too loosely, he uses it to summarize what Smoke and Porter offers: “Really, craft is what anyone chooses to focus in on and try to excel at. Here, we have Mindy’s well-crafted wine list, we showcase the craft brewers, and we constantly work on our craft of cooking and presenting food; and then there are the woodsmiths, tile layers and other craftsmen who put their heart and soul into this place helping us create it. It’s the craft of food — the fun, the enjoyment, the excitement of trying something new, a little bit different.”

Bisson’s inspiration comes from many sources, he said, “But most importantly, we pay attention to the community around us, and are inspired by what they want and like. Just like fire, the restaurant is a living, breathing, ever-changing and evolving thing.”

Smoke and Porter is located at 1752 N. US-31 and accessible via the TART Trail in Traverse City. Serving dinner Tuesday– Thursday 5pm–9pm and Friday/Saturday 5pm–10pm; brunch Tuesday–Friday 11am– 2:30pm and Saturday/Sunday 9am–3pm; happy hour Tuesday–Friday 4pm–6pm. For more information, visit smokeandporter.com or call 231-612-5020 $$-$$$