Taproot Cider House

May 13, 2016

A Taste of Community

taproot (noun) tap·root /-rüt, -rut/: 1. a primary root that grows vertically downward from a tree and gives off small lateral roots

For Jen Mackey, owner-operator of in Traverse City, the name of her restaurant holds significance well beyond its obvious association with trees (in this case, apple trees).

“When any part of the tree is weakening, the taproot goes down even further to find more nourishment. That’s kind of how I feel about my business. We are like the taproot and the community is the tree. We are here to nourish it and help keep it healthy and strong.”

Taproot Cider House was launched January 28, 2016 and, like anyone starting a new business, Mackey had a few sleepless nights before the doors actually opened.

“I would lie there, going over everything in my mind, and ask myself, ‘Did I do everything I could to make this place stand out and be different?’” She needn’t have worried. Taproot is not only different, but — thanks to Mackey and her staff — it’s making a difference, and people are beginning to notice.

DESIGN BY NATURE

The first thing they notice is the cool, industrial vibe that, thanks to a host of reclaimed natural elements (like the huge vestiges of actual taproots reaching from the back wall of the bar and also down from the imposing overhead lighting fixtures), still manages to exude a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

After Mackey acquired the former Euro- Stop Café space in 2015, she began an extensive remodeling process, starting from the ground up and collaborating with her carpenter, Chad Smith of Artisan Construction, on the overall design.

“I came in with all the material and he helped me put it together,” she said. “But, when he first saw what I had, he said, ‘You realize that you’ve brought me eight different types of wood here, right?’ He found ways to use all of it, though. The barnwood siding on the bar, as well as the beams on the ceiling, are from a farm near Ludington. Some of the tabletops are made of wood from trees toppled by last year’s devastating wind storm. Chad made all of these tables and my metal sculptor, Alex Brydges from Fly Ash Forge, made the bases.”

The cider tap handles are — no surprise here — apple wood with copper number plates.

“A local artist came in and was looking for work while we were under construction,” said Mackey, “and he ended up engraving the numbers on the taps freehand. They rotate regularly, so a number system makes more sense than names.”

The former co-owner of a 7-acre organic farm, Mackey says she has always been very health-conscious and that was what eventually led her to cider and to Taproot.

“In 2009, I started working with Northern Natural Organics and selling their products — at that time, cherry concentrate and apple cider. It was a good fit because they have a philosophy of farming for the health of the environment.”

When the cider trend really started to take off, Northern Natural opened a tasting room and Mackey was also part of that venture.

“I branched off on my own to open Taproot in 2015,” she said, “but I still carry their cider here, along with others from Verterra, Left Foot Charley, Uncle John’s, Tandem, Vandermill, Blake’s and Shorts, as well as our own cider and the rotational taps.”

EAT, DRINK AND BE HEALTHY

If cider is the heart of Taproot’s being, its food is the soul.

“It was very important for me to have a farm-focused, Michigan-based menu that uses as many organic products as possible,” said Mackey. “However, my goal was not to make a huge statement, but to know that I am offering people

a healthy option, without having the need to overeducate them on why I’m doing it — just wanting them to feel good about what they ate when they leave, and not feeling like that was the reason that they came here. It’s just a subtle way for me to try to make a difference in the community. You can have healthy and tasty food at the same time, at an affordable price.”

Head chef and kitchen manager Nate Walton is of the same mind.

“It’s quite simple,” he explained. “We start with local ingredients — freshness is very important — and then create menu items that pair well with cider. We like to have something for everybody, including comfort food — nothing too fancy, but we do like to play around with flavor combinations.”

“It’s such fun to work with Nate on the various dishes,” said Mackey. “A lot of times I’ll be eating the food he makes and there will be a firework of flavors going off in my mouth. It’s like when I said to him, ‘Let’s do a taco, and the next thing I knew, he had this awesome lime-and-purple-cabbage slaw and quinoa tabouli, and roasted vegetables and local cheddar cheese…it was way beyond just doing a taco.”

Taproot’s in-house baker, Chris Stefanciw, makes the rolls, baguettes, breads and pizza dough for the restaurant daily. The freshly baked bun enveloping the Taproot burger is so good it threatens to steal the show from the delicious Whispering Farms beef patty, Grassfields Edam cheese and locally produced spring greens. Other menu stars are the house fries (with gorgonzola), the layered beet salad (“like a rainbow on a plate”) and the brick-oven pizzas (with vegan and glutenfree options.)

BRANCHING OUT

Late spring and summer will bring new additions in both kitchen offerings and amenities.“We know a lot of people who forage for mushrooms and other wild edibles, so the summer menu will feature several things in that direction,” said Mackey. “We will definitely be using morels, maybe to top an asparagus soup, and we’ll probably do a ramp pesto. I’m also really excited to make purees from summer fruits for our bar offerings.”

Live music six days a week (including kids’ karaoke on Sundays) and the Taproot “Mug Club” will continue to be big attractions. Expanded indoor seating is planned and a new outdoor bar and patio are in the works.

“We’ll do some fun things with that, too,” said Mackey. “It will be opening up soon, gearing up for the summer. I love the bay view and it will be great for people to enjoy that and feel the breeze off the water. This is a great spot. I feel so connected to downtown here. I grew up in Traverse City and being here and having this place is a dream come true.”

Taproot Cider House is located at 300 E. Front Street (corner of Front and Cass.) Open Monday through Thursday 11am–10pm, Friday and Saturday 11am–11pm and Sunday 12pm–9pm. For more information, visit taproottc.com or call (231) 943-2500. $–$$