U.P. Road Trip: 10 Must-see Sights

June 10, 2016

Clockwise from top left: The Les Cheneaux Islands are a paradise for boaters and paddlers. The Mystery Spot in St. Ignace plays with the concepts of gravity and optical illusions. Mount Avron is said to be the highest natural point in both the U.P. and the state. The top of Miners Castle Rock offers big views across Lake Superior. One talented craftsman built a “junkyard” sculpture park all on his own in the U.P.

If you’ve lived in or visited Michigan for any length of time, chances are you know about many of the Upper Peninsula’s highlights: Tahquamenon Falls, Whitefish Bay, the Hancock copper mines, and Pictured Rocks. But there are plenty of lesser-known sights that also deserve a spot on the U.P.’s must-see list, from the beautiful to the unusual to the just plain fun. Here are ten to start with:

THE LES CHENEAUX ISLANDS

Les Cheneaux means “the channels,” and that’s exactly what you’ll find weaving in and out among this picturesque grouping of three dozen small islands along the Upper Peninsula’s Lake Huron shoreline, 30 miles northeast of Mackinac Island. Nearby mainland towns Cedarville and Hessel offer plenty of lodging, shopping, restaurants, and marinas, making either the perfect place to set up base for your boating or kayaking adventure. Pack up your sunscreen, beverage, and lunch, and get ready to explore an alphabetical list of watery wilderness, beginning with Alligator Island and Bear Island and continuing to Rover Island, Strongs Island, and Winona Island. More information: lescheneaux.org

KITCH-ITI-KIPI

Michigan’s largest freshwater spring’s name actually means “big cold water,” and Kitchiti-kipi originally was called “The Mirror of Heaven” by the early Native Americans. One look will tell you why: Its glassy oval pool is about 40 feet deep, emerald green at its furthest depths, and so clear that the fish appear to be suspended in nothing. Step onto the observation raft (you can pull it across the pool yourself with a cable), and you’ll be able to look over the side or through the viewing windows to see mineral-encrusted tree branches and shifting colors caused by the spring’s constantly moving currents of sand. It’s mystical, beautiful, and it must be seen in-person; all you need to see it is a Michigan State Parks vehicle permit. More information: michigan.gov/dnr

LAKENENLAND SCULPTURE PARK

More classic Americana can be found at this park of quirky and extremely creative scrap iron sculptures by craftsman Tom Lakenen. You can choose to walk or drive through the 37-acre sculpture yard, or even bring a picnic lunch along as you view such eclectic artworks as rebar alligators, space aliens, colorful invented wildlife, and giant metal flowers. Lakenenland is completely free, and Mr. Lakenen generously provides rest areas, a fire pit, and sometimes even coffee, so he always appreciates donations. (Oh, and don’t mind the 1998 website design when you look up directions to the place; it’s all part of its retro charm.) More information: lakenenland.com

MINERS CASTLE ROCK

You’ve probably heard of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. But if you haven’t yet visited Miners Castle Rock about six miles east of Munising, you’re missing out. This is a fairly easy-to-access U.P. spot with an enormous payoff: a paved trail leads to three separate overlook points (some stairs are involved) showcasing broad vistas across Lake Superior and out to Grand Island. These are fantastic spots for photo opportunities, and if you’re lucky you might even see a bald eagle. More information: exploremunising.com

GLASS BOTTOM SHIPWRECK TOURS

If you’ve ever wanted to see some of the massive shipwrecks of Lake Superior but don’t have the skills or the interest in diving, these tours are the answer. Float above the lake’s “underwater museum,” and you’ll travel back through the days of American shipping history by way of a two-hour trek on a glassbottom boat that affords remarkable views of shipwreck sites, including a fully intact wooden sailing ship that was built before the Civil War and now resides only a few feet below the water’s surface. Each tour includes full historical narration, plus topside views that include the East Channel Lighthouse and the rocks and caves of Grand Island. More information: shipwrecktours.com

OSWALD’S BEAR RANCH

Oswald’s opened in 1997 and today claims to be the largest bear ranch in the United States, boasting 29 roaming black bears in four habitats. Elevated viewing platforms allow visitors a barrier-free view of the bears as they roam in natural habitat enclosures that include plenty of trees and even waterfalls. Dean and Jewel Oswald are the bears’ keepers. The bear ranch started when the DNR asked Dean Oswald to look after one abandoned bear cub after another, and it just “never stopped,” he said. Now, the Oswalds are a member of the Zoological Association of America and offer plenty of information and stories about these massive and smart animals that share their property. More information: oswaldsbearranch.com

MOUNT ARVON

Mount Arvon is said to be the highest natural point in the state of Michigan, with an elevation of 1,979.238 feet. Access to this rugged mountain has been improved over the past several years; the logging road has been graded, and blue signs direct visitors up to a parking area from which they can walk the rest of the way to the pinnacle. Most vehicles can handle the road, but you can hike it if you’re prepped for a trek of 16 miles (eight in; eight back). If you’re particularly brave, you can even snowshoe or cross-country ski up in the wintertime. At the top, some of the trees have been cleared near the northwest corner, providing a great view over Lake Superior’s Huron Bay and the Keweenaw Peninsula. This is definitely one to tick off of your bucket list of Michigan sights. Make sure you open the steel mailbox at the summit, so that you can mark your visit by signing the logbook inside. More information: michigan.org (search Mount Arvon)

THE STANNARD ROCK LIGHT

Considered one of America’s Top 10 engineering feats, the Stannard Rock Light was built in 1882, 24 miles from land on a Lake Superior reef that’s essentially an underwater mountain, rising to a depth of just four feet below the surface in places — and a notorious hazard to ships. Lighthouse keepers have long called it “the loneliest place in North America,” and its light is still maintained by the Coast Guard as a navigation aid. Visit it by charter boat (exterior only), and you’ll get an overwhelming, eerie sense of truly being in the middle of nowhere. Less lonely: You can fish on the way there. More information: shelterbaycharterfishing.com or daybreakfish.com

THE MYSTERY SPOT

St. Ignace’s longtime tourist attraction The Mystery Spot claims to be a place where “gravity is a little different.” The jury’s out on that claim, but this place definitely captures the essence of roadside Americana. Take the Mystery Spot tour, put your skepticism aside, and simply enjoy the optical illusions and the cheerful staff as tall people appear to be shorter, balls roll uphill, and chairs (that you can sit on!) balance on two legs along the walls. You might be able to figure out the tricks if you think about it, but the whole experience is still a heck of a lot of fun. More information: mysteryspotstignace.com

PIERS GORGE

Two levels of Piers Gorge exist for the Upper Peninsula adventurer. The rapids themselves, a fast-moving section of the Menominee River, feature 10-foot drops like Misicot Falls and rough water sections dubbed with names like Volkswagen and Hell Hole. They call it “Mother Nature’s roller coaster,” and this part of the Gorge is perfect if you enjoy the adrenaline rush of crashing across the water on a kayak or guided raft tour. If that sounds like a bit too much, you can still enjoy the Gorge from its shores, via an extensive network of hiking trails and modern footbridges, all with gorgeous views of the rapids, plus opportunities to see osprey and waterfowl. More information: michigan.org (search Piers Gorge) or michiganrafts.com