March 28, 2024

Sugar Bowl

July 8, 2016
Greek Heritage, Alpen Accent

When Wendy Fleming took on a parttime job at the during Alpenfest just out of college years ago, waiting tables and bartending, she didn’t plan to stick around long, and she certainly never dreamed she would still be here a quarter of a century later. “They treated me so well, though, that I already felt at the time like I had been here forever,” she said. “It was just one of those things that was meant to be.”

ALL IN THE (GREEK) FAMILY

The Sugar Bowl seems to have that effect on people. Since brothers George and Harry Doumas emigrated from Greece and founded the restaurant in 1919, one of its hallmarks has been its longstanding staff. The first chef stayed on for over 60 years, cooking on a cast-iron wood stove for much of that time. The current chef, Bob Kidder, started as a dishwasher 42 years ago, gradually training in the kitchen and moving up the ranks. Several other employees can look back at careers at the Sugar Bowl spanning four or five decades.

Today, Fleming wears many hats in the organization — among them manager, payroll clerk and assistant to the owner (octogenarian Robert H. Doumas, son of co-founder George Doumas). “There’s a reason why our people want to stay,” she said. “Mr. Doumas is very good to all of us. When you work for a family restaurant like this, versus a chain, you become kind of like family too — it’s so nice, and so different from dealing with a big corporation. This is one of the oldest family-run restaurants in Michigan — maybe in the country.”

That kind of employee longevity is rare and admirable — especially in the restaurant industry — but Fleming noted that it’s not the main thing that brings customers in and keeps them coming back. “They come for the food,” she said. “The menu has stood the test of time as well. We change things a little from time to time — to take advantage of seasonal ingredients, or for holidays or special events — but basically, it stays the same, because that’s the way our customers like it. They might have been coming here for 30 years, and they’ve been ordering the whitefish, and it’s good every time. Mr. Doumas drives to Mackinaw City every week to get it fresh, sometimes twice a week in the summer. He drives there himself in his convertible that says ‘Sugar B’ on the back!”

The menu is designed to appeal to a wide range of people — and that also describes the clientele. “The demographic includes all ages, but we’re trying really hard to market ourselves better to the age 21-to-50 group,” said Fleming. “We do get a lot of families. Gaylord is very centrally located, and families that are spread out across the area will meet here and enjoy a nice meal together. With our large menu, everybody can find something they like. We get a lot of tourists, too, and people passing through. We have signs on I-75 and on M-32, and people driving by see them and stop in, so we get visitors from all over, yearround. People come up to this area for skiing, snowmobiling, hunting, hiking fishing — it’s not just locals in the wintertime, although we certainly appreciate their support too!”

COOKING OUT – INSIDE F

leming says Sunday is always busy during the day. The extensive breakfast-brunch menu is no doubt a factor in that, with five different offerings from the “Skillet Corner” and a quartet of omelets, eight “Sugar Bowl Favorites” (including Belgian waffles, French toast, hot cakes and more), house-made corned beef hash, and the large and — according to the menu — “super good” homebaked chocolate muffin.

“Open hearth” dinners rule on Fridays and Saturdays in the summer. “They are extremely popular,” said Fleming. “We cook out — but it’s inside. Our chefs prepare the steaks, the lamb chops, and the prime rib over an open fire, and we usually do a sauté dish that flames — it’s quite the show, and the customers love it!” Friday is a big night in the bar for happy hour, with 50 percent off drinks and $5.00 appetizers like bruschetta, flat bread pizza, baked goat cheese in wine sauce with kalamata olives, and flaming saganaki cheese.

If those last two sound faintly — or very — Greek to you, you’re on the right track. In fact, Greek specialties are — not surprisingly, considering the Sugar Bowl’s provenance — sprinkled liberally throughout its extensive menu.

“Many people come here specifically for the Greek food,” said Fleming. “It’s one of the only places in the region that you can get it. We sell a ton of gyros and a great deal of our Athenian veal, and we also have a feta-chicken sandwich, Greek-seasoned lamb chops, and our signature Greek-style lemon-rice soup, to name just a few. Mrs. Doumas, the owner’s wife, makes the Baklava, and we make spanakopita, which is on the salad bar every weekend. Mrs. Doumas taught the cooks how to make that.”

FROM GYROS TO…BRATWURST?

But the Sugar Bowl’s menu also pays homage to Gaylord’s now-traditional “Alpine Village” identity (its sister city is Pontresina, Switzerland) with several Swiss, German and Austrian dishes. And the restaurant makes it a point to feature several of them prominently during the town’s annual ode to its alter ego (this year July 12–16). “We’re a big part of the Alpenfest every year,” said Fleming. “We set up an outdoor café under a big tent that can seat between 70 to 100 people, and we serve Wiener schnitzel, knockwurst, bratwurst, sauerkraut, German potato salad — anything with a Swiss or Alpine theme.” There is also a service bar in the tent for the obligatory beer (among other beverages) that pairs so well with those specialties. “The tent is open from 11 in the morning until 11 at night, and we have a live polka band that plays,” said Fleming. “It’s always a good time — people dance in the street!” The Sugar Bowl’s centennial is coming up in three years, a milestone definitely worth celebrating. “There will be a big celebration for sure, but for now we’re concentrating on the present — this Alpenfest, and the rest of this year,” said Fleming. “We’ll start making our plans for the anniversary when it gets closer.” Of course. When you’ve already been around for 97 years, what’s the hurry?

The Sugar Bowl is located at 216 West Main St. in Gaylord. Open daily with breakfast starting at 7am, lunch at 11am, and dinner in the family room at 4pm. The main dining room opens at 5:30pm. Banquet and private rooms are available upon request. For more information, visit sugar-bowl-restaurant.com or call 989-732-5524.

Trending

Mysterious Michigan Reads

We can’t think of a better way to spend spring break than with a great book. Northern Express asked local bookseller... Read More >>

Heirloom Recipes With Heritage, History, and Nostalgia

Before we begin to stash our coats and put winter behind us, let us remember what years past have taught us…fake sp... Read More >>

A Floral Family Affair

In the quaint downtown of Elk Rapids sits Golden Hill Farms, a shop where the artistry of floristry meets the rustic charm... Read More >>

A Look at Originalism

O Tempora O Mores! Oh the times, oh the culture. This Latin phrase relates to both the 18th century and our current times.... Read More >>