Winemakers Looking at Strong Bounce-Back Year

Sept. 30, 2016

Lee Lutes wasn’t worried the lack of rainfall this past summer would threaten the wine grape harvest. The head winemaker at Blackstar Farms said the warm, dry weather in June and July was actually beneficial for the grapes, and if it held form, he said, “There will be a bunch of winemakers dancing a jig.”

August was much wetter, but the warmth continued, much to the delight of Lutes and his fellow winemakers. Barring an early frost or torrential rainfall, this year looks to be an excellent one for winemaking.

“We’ve had perfect weather. It’s looking really good,” said Karel Bush. Bush is the program manager at the Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council. “Right now, warm days and cool nights are perfect. “ “We’re really excited about this year, especially after the last two,” said Lorri Hathaway, the executive director of the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail. She is referencing the harvests of the last two years, which saw few grapes — none at some vineyards — due primarily to the previous years’ winters. That’s different this time around; the region in 2016 enjoyed a mild winter and warm summer. “The winemakers aren’t just excited because there’s fruit, but because of the high quality,” she said.

That’s a theme echoed by most everyone in the wine industry in northwestern lower Michigan. Patrick Ives is the vineyard manager for Harbor Springs Vineyard and Winery, located at Pond Hill Farm, just north of Harbor Springs. “We had really great weather — high 90s and warm overnight,” he said.

“They’re ripening one to two weeks ahead of last year. They have good sugar levels.”

Kirk Jones, the owner of Sleeping Bear Farms and St. Ambrose Cellars in Beulah, said prospects are really good for the year. “It has a lot of promise,” he said.

Good prospects. Promise. While optimistic, winegrowers are mindful that there’s still time for problems to develop.

For example, an early frost could be devastating, while too much rain could lead to an increased incidence of diseases. Jones admitted the recent spate of rain puts the grapes at risk for fungal issues.

Another potential problem with excessive rainfall is that grapes can absorb too much moisture, causing to them split. That’s especially true for thinner-skinned grapes, such as pinots. Lutes said thus far it has not been problematic, as the pinots are typically among the first grapes harvested. “Varieties like cab franc and chardonnay are a little thicker skinned. If we see a lot of rain, there may be a little breakdown or rot.”

Then there are pests: Birds, insects, rodents and other animals are always a potential hazard. Marie Chantal-Dalese, of Chateau Chantal and the Wineries of Old Mission, said they put nets on some of the Chateau Chantal vineyards to discourage birds, while fencing is used to keep landbound predators such as deer and raccoons away. Another means of deterring grape predators is with noise, such as air cannons. “We sometimes have a guy on an ATV with a starter’s pistol,” she said.

Lutes said he’s seen a heavy influx of bees, bald-faced hornets and wasps thus far as well. “A little activity is normal,” he said, but this year has more, which can result in workers reaching into the vines for grapes and getting stung instead. Ironically, he ascribed the larger numbers of insects to the same warm, dry weather that has been beneficial to the grapes.

Lutes said it’s is always a challenge to strike a balance between letting the grapes fully ripen and avoiding the pitfalls of Mother Nature. “If we were in California, we’d just let [the fruit] hang. Here, is it better to take it before it’s optimally ripe? You can’t make good wine from fruit that’s degraded.”

Hathaway said the early varieties, such as pinot gris, are showing high quality as well as yields that, if not remarkably high, are at least normal. She is comparing it with 2007 and 2010, which were seen as among the region’s best vintages.

Given that and the optimism of the growers themselves, Lutes, Ives, Jones and the rest should have their dancing shoes at the ready while still keeping a wary eye on Mother Nature. “I’m still dancing a jig,” said Lutes, “but this is why it’s a challenge to be a winemaker in northern Michigan. Time will tell if it’s a very, very good year.”