Cinco De Tequila The exotic, arcane world of Mexico‘s finest

When restaurateur Fred Moore of Magnum Hospitality (Red Mesa Grill, Pearls and The Fish) caught me recently at a wine dinner, he invited me to come and taste tequila with him and chef Kyle Marshall at Red Mesa’s Traverse City location. There was some hesitation in my voice when I agreed. Sensing it Fred said, “Rick, don’t worry, this isn’t the tequila of your college days.”

Now I was really getting worried. Did Fred go to college with me? Was he with me when I organized a “Tequila Tailgate” before an MSU football game? The game that my friends and I climbed up on the goal posts and tore them down after the big win and where my face was plastered all over ESPN and several sports sections? Then there was that Tequila Toga Party on campus that found over 100 of us at midnight knocking on the president of the university’s door. I got into a little trouble for that one as well and forever swore off tequila except in the occasional margarita.
So when Fred told me that he had over 120 bottles of different tequilas I was worried. He assured me that it would take at least a year for even the most loyal connoisseur of tequila to sample them all. In fact since they opened their first Red Mesa in Boyne City eight years ago, only a couple dozen customers have tasted the 104 tequilas required for full membership in the Red Mesa Tequila Bar Club.

JOIN THE CLUB
“This club isn’t meant as a competition,” said Moore. “It was created for fun and if you enjoy tequila and come in enough over a couple of years you might get through the list.”
Tequila club members get a collectable shirt, a hand-blown commemorative mar-garita glass and shot glass and a few other goodies. But Chef Marshall sees the real reward not in the gifts but in experiencing and tasting some of the best tequilas made.
“Most people start with ‘shots’ of lower grades of blended tequila, hence the salt and lemon to mask the flavor. It is the same concept with the Lemon Drop -- all you are doing is trying to improve the taste of a poor quality vodka,” said Marshall. “Now, good tequila should be sipped as there are several wonderful flavor profiles. Like with wine or bourbon flavors might change in the start, middle and finish of the tequila. Factors that impact flavors are the types of barrels used and the amount of aging time.”
At Red Mesa the philosophy is to present tequila for one’s enjoyment. While bartenders and wait staff make suggestions no one judges one’s personal preference.
“If someone orders $14 shot of tequila and wants to ‘shoot it’ versus sip it we will oblige,” said Marshall. “We have glassware for both approaches. If you order a flight we usually serve it in sipping glasses; they look like mini wine glasses. If you want to ‘shoot’ it we have hand-blown shot glasses known as ‘shooters’ for that.”
A CERTAIN REGION
At Red Mesa the 100 plus tequila menu features one ounce pours ranging in price from $4.25 to $40. Sampling flights for the most part are in the $8 range for three ounce pours. Marshall says that tequila prices are high in comparison to vodkas and whiskies for good reason.
“There is only one place in the world that can make tequila and that is a certain region in Mexico,” said Marshall. “So essentially they dictate price. Top grade tequila is priced like fine cognacs or single malt Scotch.”
Tequila is made from mature agave plants that grow only in what is known as the “Tequila” (central) region of Mexico. Blue agave plants are harvested and the “heart of the plant” is hydrolyzed through cooking and then the distillation process begins. This distillation process is overseen by a “maestro” who uses his skill and wisdom to determine the potential quality and required aging process for the best potential flavor. Tequila production is regulated by the state run Consejo Regulador del Tequila (Tequila Regulatory Council) that not only insures production quality standards are met but also oversees the promotion of the product around the world. Tequila is a matter of national pride in Mexico and is a symbol of the country’s heritage and culture.

GRADING SYSTEM
At Red Mesa they use a grading system that essentially equates to the styles of tequila. Anejo is 100% blue agave and is aged for at least one year, while Resposado is 100% blue agave and is “rested” between three months to one year. Silver tequilas while 100% blue agave and are not aged. There are also blended tequilas (Cuervo Gold, Two Fingers). Rested or aged tequilas are stored in barrels that result in creating various flavor profiles ranging from hints of vanilla and pepper to smoke, peat or oak depending on the barrel. Some aged tequila will develop a golden color, while caramel coloring is added to blended tequilas.
While there are literally thousands of tequilas out there, the decision process as to which ones to carry at Red Mesa is essentially made for them.
“Because the state regulates distribution there are a lot of tequilas they don’t bring in,” said Marshall. “We have what is available and we also have a handful of tequilas that we are the only ones in the state because the state stopped bringing them in. So we bought them up before they were discontinued. For example, Rey Sol that goes for $40 a shot and is only at our Boyne City Red Mesa.”

COUSIN MEZCAL
Marshall is excited that several mezcals will be returning to the state. A paperwork error in Lansing left several off the list. Mezcals are the lesser-known cousins of tequila. While all mezcals are tequila not all tequilas are mezcals. While the tasting traits are similar mezcals come from the Oaxaca region of Mexico using five different agave plants. Marshall anticipates several mezcals on the tequila menu by the start of summer. Currently the Del Maguey Crema Mezcal is on the list and aged in cognac barrels it has wonderful vanilla flavor notes.
Vanilla hints? Doesn’t sound good for a margarita?
“Not all tequila has the right flavor profiles for a margarita,” said Marshall. “Those with pepper and vanilla notes are best sipped and a side glass of our sangarita mix. It is best to consult with your server on what best goes in a margarita or order one of our many different margaritas from our list.”
A Bobo Wabo has long been rumored as one of the favorites in Boyne City.
“It is. It was developed by Boyne City Bob who is one of our regulars, so we named it after him,” said Marshall. “It is made with Cabo Wabo Resposado (see Bottoms Up column) and Cointreau and served up.”
Red Mesa has the definitive list of tequilas in Michigan and for that matter only a restaurant in Chicago out duals them for the best in the Midwest. So with the rising popularity of high-end tequilas why are not more restaurants creating lists like Red Mesa?
“The price,” said Moore. “We have a serious financial investment in this.”

TEQUILA CELLAR
Besides displaying all the tequilas on the wall behind the bar Moore said his partner Jim Cartwright came up with the idea of creating the “Tequila Cellar.” Like a wine cellar this displays their tequila collection in full view of the patrons.”
Marshall and Moore said that each week they profile one brand of tequila and offering a special flight price. The wait staff is given various facts and flavor profiles on the featured tequila to be able to share that with the customer. They also bring in the occasional tequila expert to share their knowledge in an informal setting.
“It isn’t like a class,” said Moore. “Essentially the rep will come to your table if you order a flight and talk the basics of the tequila you ordered.”
The next opportunity is this week on Thursday for Red Mesa’s Cinco de Mayo celebration. Both locations will have tequila experts on hand along with live bands and food and drink specials. Cinco de Mayo has become Mexico’s version of St. Patrick’s Day. The “Fifth of May,” in 1862 is when the Mexican army defeated Napoleon’s French Army and annually a celebration has taken place since.
After trying a flight of Corazon tequilas and a mixed flight featuring Cabo Wabo Anejo, Del Maguey Crema Mezcal and the house gold blend they use for margaritas I overcame my fear of tequila. I previously had arranged for my wife to pick me up. On our way home she took me past the high school football field and asked if I was “tempted.” I just chuckled because while those days are behind me I am happy that no longer is that the case for tequila.
To learn more about Red Mesa and to look at their Latin America themed menu visit http://www.magnumhospitality.com/redmesa.asp or call for them in Traverse City at (231) 938-2773 and in Boyne City (231) 582-0049.

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