Tastemakers: Chef Myles - Dr. Frank Vinifera

Char-grilled Lamb Chop Trattoria Stella

Chef Myles of Trattoria Stella has been on sabbatical in Italy, traveling and studying in the great culinary communities. Via e-mails Chef Myles has reported that he has taken pages of notes on Italian ingredients and techniques and when he arrives back to his kitchen he will bring with him new inspirations. His first big dinner back will be the Parallel 45 Dinner featuring five wines from American wine regions (see Bottoms Up) on that renowned line that is halfway between the equator and the North Pole.
In Chef Myles’ absence, his capable sous chefs have been keeping it together. To test their skill I waltzed in unannounced and asked that they prepare one of the entrees for the March 6th wine dinner. Chef Patrick was unfazed and minutes later presented the Char-grilled Lamb Chop with cipollini onion risotto and cob-smoked bacon. This dish alone will easily make the dinner worth the price of admission. While each aspect of this dish was prepared to perfection the simple but flavorful veal sauce with hints of maple syrup is just the extra wow to set this entrée apart. The flavors of all four of the entrees components blend together in unison creating unique flavor sensations with each bite. A suggestion to dinner participants make sure you have bread to soak up every ounce of the sauce.
Wine dinners have been a big hit at Stella; each one seems to surpass the previous one in both the gastronomic and wine tasting experience. This will be no exception to the trend, as the evening will feature Lobster Involtini, Oyster Mushroom Ravioli, and Petrale Sole Stuffed with Dungeness Crab in addition to the lamb. Space is limited, for reservations contact Stella (
231) 929-8989.---Rick Coates

Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars
Riesling Dry 2004
The recent compromise between the Michigan wine industry and the Michigan Beer & Wine Wholesalers has opened the door for several new tasting opportunities. Wine aficionados now have the opportunity to pursue small boutique wines that are not produced in large enough quantity for national distribution.
While seeking out these wineries is one way to broaden one’s knowledge of American wines (all 50 states now have at least one winery), another great way is at a wine dinner. Next week, Trattoria Stella in TC will host the 45th Parallel Dinner (see Tastemakers) that will feature wines that are produced on the 45th Parallel and were featured in Paul Lukacs book “The Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards and Vintages.” Certainly the “star” of the evening will be Talismon from our very own Larry Mawby but Stella proprietor and wine sommelier Amanda Danielson has brought in four additional stunners to make for a unique celebration of America’s growing wine industry. Three of the wines are from Oregon (known internationally for Pinot Noir) and the evening will also feature Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars Riesling Dry 2004.
New York, like Michigan, is one of America’s top wine regions and proof that great wine is being made outside of California. But the wonders of New York wines are relatively unknown since 80% of them are sold within miles of their wineries. New York and Northern Michigan share similarities as grape growing regions and both are producing internationally award winning Rieslings. Overseas, Riesling is a crown jewel in vinifera circles but has been under-appreciated by the American palate until recently. Now Rieslings have become the darling of the American wine industry as connoisseurs have discovered the vibrancy of the Dry Riesling.
Dr. Konstantin Frank of Finger Lakes began experimenting with vinifera in northern New York. He believed that despite cold conditions these grape varietals would survive. He was right and now 40 years later he is considered one of the best vintners in the country. Internationally renowned wine critic Tom Stevenson placed Dr. Frank as the number one (Larry Mawby was 4th) wine producer in northeastern America. Dr. Frank also took home 34 Gold medals at national and international wine competitions. The big winner has been his 2004 Dry Riesling. Harvested in late fall the acidity is crisp with wonderful green apple and peachy aromas this wine pairs great with spicy foods,
Danielson and Chef Myles have opted to pair this Riesling with a oyster mushroom ravioli with white truffle cream and thyme dish which will draw out the wine’s fruit character. Area wine enthusiasts will find the March 6 Parallel 45 dinner a unique opportunity to taste great wines and learn first had from one America’s leading wine experts on how Northern Michigan is stacking up with the rest of the wine world. For info on
Dr. Frank’s visit see www.drfrankwines.com. To make reservations for the dinner call (231) 929-8989.---Rick Coates
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