All hail the master of wine

When reviewing the list of presenters at this weekend’s Epicurean Classic, the name Bob Paulinski might not jump off the page at first glance. Paulinski isn’t a Food Network or television celebrity, and he hasn’t written a book (yet). So why is Paulinski even on the list?
He is probably the most important “wine buyer” in the country.
As the Senior Wine & Spirits Buyer for Sam’s Club, Paulinski’s decisions have a major impact on the global wine industry, from the producers to the consumers. If you sell wine at a retail shop or restaurant, make wine, or drink wine, then spending time with Paulinski this weekend is a must.
For wine drinkers in Northern Michigan, Paulinski is a familiar name; along with his wife Mary Ann, they shaped consumer palates in the area for 16 years, beginning in 1986 when they opened the Village Wine Shop at the Grand Traverse Resort. He would eventually move his store to the then and now again Blue Goat location (at the base of the Old Mission Peninsula). 
The Paulinski’s sold their shop in February of 2002, and seven months later Paulinski became the nineteenth American to pass the Masters of Wine examination. To put this accomplishment in perspective, only three other Americans have obtained this illustrious achievement over the past five years. In all, there are only 257 Masters of Wine throughout the world (Paulinski became the 230th in the 52 year history of the honor).
After passing his exam, the job offers came in from retailers, restaurant chains and even wineries in New Zealand. But Paulinski had other ideas, and he drafted a letter/proposal to Sam’s Club to create a position to oversee their wine department. His proposal worked, and in October of 2003 he took over. Today, Sam’s Club remains the only major retailer in the world to employ a Master of Wine.
Paulinski will be a part of “The Cheese Course: A Match Made in Cheese & Wine Heaven” this Saturday, September 15. He will also oversee a new offering this year-“The Wine Intensive Trade Program,” -where he will give the keynote address and advice to restaurant wine personnel, trade professionals and sommeliers on how to strengthen skills and increase wine sales.
Since beginning his pursuit of wine in the early ‘80s at a suburban Detroit wine shop, Paulinski has seen several changes in the industry. Most notably has been the rise of “new world wine regions” such as Australia, Chile, and Argentina, plus an overall improved quality in the winemaking process, both in the bottle and in the vineyard, that has resulted in “fewer flawed wines in the marketplace.” As for price points, Paulinski sees pretty much the same pursuit.
“I think $10 remains the hurdle.Certainly the national sales numbers point to this, though there is growth in the $12 to $20 bottle price point,” said Paulinski. “Certainly with the Internet and the number of publications out there, the consumer is better informed. Wine has also become more of an everyday beverage and less of a special occasion beverage. That is what I am most happy about - seeing people enjoying wine, regardless of the bottle price.”
Paulinski feels that wine consumers should keep one goal in mind when seeking out wines.
“From a buyer’s perspective, it is quite simple. Buy what you like,” said Paulinski. “I think the consumer should ask the same questions that I do. ‘Is the wine what it’s supposed to be?’ Meaning is it true to its type? Is it true to its origin? It is my job to put wines in our stores that are true to their types.”
That goes for pairing wine with food (choosing wines you like); Paulinski isn’t particular about the traditional rules.
“I see these old food pairing rules as one more piece of baggage for the consumer in the wine selection process,” said Paulinski. “I am happy to see more people enjoying wine with their meals. If you are passionate about wine and food pairings, that’s great, and there is nothing wrong with that path of exploring the various food and wine nuances. But I think most want to enjoy their meal and wine without these parameters. What truly matters here is doing what works best for you.”
When Paulinski convinced Sam’s to create the position and hire him to do the job, one of his primary selling points was to put Sam’s in a position to better compete with COSTCO, the number one retailer of wine in the country at that time.
“We certainly have made inroads, and I am pleased with what we have accomplished to this point. They have 110 clubs in California to our 39, so they are certainly number one there, but it is an even playing field across the rest of the country,” said Paulinski. “My department had one other person when I started; we now have 14. We have worked hard to better serve our members and customers, and that is what I am most proud of. There is certainly room for improvement, and that is my focus.”
So is the position everything and more than what Paulinski had hoped for?
“Yes. I get to travel to great wine regions, up-and-coming wine regions, and a lot of cool places in the United States,” said Paulinski. “I feel very fortunate to be in this position and work at something I am very passionate about.”
“When I am in the day-to-day routine here at corporate headquarters in Bentonville, Arkansas, I don’t always sense the magnitude of my work in the wine industry,” said Paulinski. “But when I get out on the road and visit with winemakers, I get a better sense of the importance of it all. For me, that is a good feeling - to know that in my own way, I am making a positive impact on an industry that is very important to me.”
Not having day-to-day contact with the consumer as he did in his Traverse City days was one of the biggest changes for Paulinski.
“Sure I don’t have that daily rapport with the consumer, but I do get out to the clubs,” said Paulinski. “Already this year I have been to 38 clubs where I interact with buyers and suppliers. I also think that with the Internet and other resources, the consumer has become more independent, and more importantly, confident in their ability to select wines.”
Paulinski also oversees beer and spirits and sees one big difference between wine and beer.
“With wine there is not brand loyalty, and what little there once was is disappearing,” said Paulinski. “Wine drinkers tend to be more willing to experiment. Quality at all price points has taken the risk out of experimenting. People are looking for what is new and exciting.”
So just what is new and exciting?
“I just came back from Chile, and I see a lot of great wines from there on the horizon. You’ll want to look for a lot of certified organic wines as well. It reminds me of California 20 years ago,” said Paulinski. “I am excited about Spain, especially the Barcelona area there are great values and modern styles coming out of there. There is Northern Italy as well, where they are experimenting with some off-the-wall grape varieties.”
Paulinski chuckles at the notion of cellaring wines; he understands why some do it, but warns that a lot of speculation and risk goes into cellaring.
“Probably only one tenth of 1% of wine has real cellaring potential,” said Paulinski. “In general, whites are best within two years of their vintage, and reds within four to five years. After that, the profile of these wines change and a lot of the forward fruit has disappeared. It really depends what you want out of the bottle of wine, but in general most wines sold in stores are ready for immediate consumption. Regardless, whatever you do, don’t store wine above your refrigerator in a rack for months at a time. Wine isn’t a decoration.”
One advantage several Sam’s Clubs in other states have over Michigan clubs is their ability to sample wines.
“We have clubs in many states where sampling is allowed. This is so important, and gives those clubs an upper hand. We often sample up to six wines at a time and this really makes a difference in sales,” said Paulinski. “It is similar to the tasting room concept at wineries; the consumer is more likely to purchase wines that they have tasted first.”
Based on his knowledge of the alcohol politics in Michigan, Paulinski isn’t holding his breath that Michigan will change their laws any time soon to allow for tasting at retail wine shops. As for wines from Northern Michigan, Paulinski has been keeping his “palate” on them.
“Certainly I have seen the improvements here in Northern Michigan, and I am looking forward to visiting some of the wineries when I return. I am also looking forward to tasting several wines,” said Paulinski. “Some vintages there have been showing surprisingly well. The winemakers have made improvements in all aspects (vineyard to winemaking) and certainly some varietals like Riesling and Pinot Gris have been impressive in recent years. Unfortunately, up and coming wine regions like Northern Michigan will not be judged by their best wines or wineries, but rather by their poorest ones. Often those (poorer) wineries are unaware and need to be told. But overall I am impressed with the region and the talent level there.”
Speaking of the region, what do Paulinski and his wife miss most about the area?
“The people. We still marvel as we travel the world, just how friendly people are up there. All of our friends remain in Traverse City,” said Paulinski. “The camaraderie we had there is what we miss the most. Certainly it is a beautiful place, but to be honest I don’t miss the winters.”
 
Bob Paulinski will bring his nearly 25 years of wine knowledge with him when he returns to the Epicurean Classic for a fourth consecutive year. His status as one of the nation’s most important wine buyers and his Master of Wines credential will make his presentations and talks at this Epicurean a must for anyone who is passionate about wine. To learn more about his presentation to the industry or his public presentations, visit www.epicureanclassic.com. View On Our Website