Tastemakers: Grilled Quail/Fenn Valley 2005

Grilled Quail w/Cabernet Franc Cherry Glaze
Grilled quail, when prepared correctly, is moist, juicy and full of flavor. A distant cousin to chicken and sometimes mistaken as part of the partridge family (actually it is part of the pheasant family), quail is a small game bird with European roots, and is found throughout the United States. Most commercial quail is pen (farm) raised and is available from online sources or meat markets that offer specialty items (Oleson’s carries it in their frozen meat section).
Because of its size, quail is often overlooked as an entrée by many restaurants who favor duck or chicken dishes that meet Midwestern (large) size portions. But two grilled quail, along with a rice and vegetable accompaniment, will satisfy most appetites.  Quail may be prepared the same as chicken: pan-fried with olive oil, broiled or grilled. Grilling is often best, and because of its size, quail cooks quickly and runs the risk of drying out. A couple tips: first marinate overnight in a red wine sauce and then wrap with procsciutto or bacon before grilling. Grill about five minutes on each side on high heat (bring a glass of wine with you and do not leave the grill), and then prick the breast. If the juices are clear, quail is done; if not (usually takes about 15 minutes), continue to check every minute until done.
During the last few minutes of grilling, baste with a red wine cherry glaze. To make the glaze, choose your favorite red wine; try using the same wine you will serve with dinner. I made a glaze using the Fenn Valley 2005 Cabernet Franc Reserve (see “Bottoms Up”), some Balaton cherries that I used to make cherry bounce with last summer (when making cherry bounce ,save the cherries and freeze for delightful cherry dishes throughout the year), dried cherries, Italian seasonings, lemon juice and a little sugar. After glazing the quail the final minutes of grilling, save some glaze to top with once quail has been plated.
White wine is an obvious pairing with quail, but this game bird, like duck, lends itself well for red wines. The Fenn Valley Cabernet Franc, paired nicely with the glaze. If you are a white wine drinker, try a local gewürztraminer.
  

Fenn Valley 2005 Cabernet Franc
Fenn Valley Vineyards, located near Saugatuck and nestled between the shoreline of Lake Michigan and in between the Kalamazoo and Black River valleys, is in the Fennville AVA (American Viticultural Area). AVA’s are federally designated grape-growing regions distinguished by geographic features and characteristics. In Northern Michigan there are two such regions; the Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula. Despite a separation of only a few miles by West Grand Traverse Bay there are differences (to be explored in coming “Bottoms Up” columns) between the two peninsulas.
Fennville was the first AVA established in Michigan back in 1981 and is home to only one winery - Fenn Valley (rumor has it more are on the way) - which was established in 1973. Ironically, Fenn Valley has produced several wines from grapes grown in the neighboring Lake Michigan Shore AVA. Fenn Valley, like most Michigan wineries, has built its reputation with white wines.
Challenged by consumers’ west coast wine expectations, Michigan reds have been given unfair criticism. That is now changing. Benefiting from improved vineyard techniques and a couple of recent phenomenal growing seasons, some delightful reds are coming out of Michigan. At a recent Michigan wine conference, I was afforded the opportunity to taste several of these reds that will be released this summer. One of the best was the 2005 Cabernet Franc Reserve from Fenn Valley. It will be released this July, and the grapes are from the Fennville (AVA).
Cabernet Franc is part of the Bordeaux blend, along with its more notable cousins Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and in the US the three grapes are blended, creating the popular Meritage blend. But Fenn Valley has proven that Cabernet Franc is wonderful on its own. The youthfulness of this wine brings fruit forward wild berry characteristics that are balanced nicely with delicate peppery spices.
Despite its youthfulness, it is drinkable now, but cellar some bottles for future enjoyment. It is hearty enough for pairing with traditional red meats, yet complex enough to be enjoyed with seafood and wild game birds (see “Tastemakers”).
Because of the prominence of wineries in Northern Michigan, wines made in the southern part of the state are not often found up here (Silvertree Deli in Suttons Bay has the best selection of wines from Michigan), so a trip to Fenn Valley is worth it. Saugatuck is a quaint shoreline community and Fenn Valley offers vineyard tours via a horse-drawn wagon. So, the next time someone says, “Michigan makes great whites, but the reds…”, pull the cork on a 2005 Fenn Valley Cabernet Franc and shut them up before they finish their sentence. www.fennvalley.com View On Our Website