Casting a Line (and Great Food) Upstream

A stop at the new Upriver from the Mill Glen Arbor

At first glance, Upriver is a casual sandwich shop, with a take-out window, booths and tables for 20, and eight picnic tables in a tranquil, al fresco setting on the Crystal River. But this place has a provenance that elevates it to a different culinary level altogether: Upriver comes from the same folks who gave us The Mill at Glen Arbor, the repurposed grist mill which has been transformed into something sublime. (For more on The Mill, see the sidebar.)

“[Upriver’s] recipes and style are a bit different, but all of our ingredients are treated with the same respect and integrity as at The Mill and all of our sister properties,” explains executive chef Bobby Thoits, who runs the show at both Upriver and The Mill. Think of locally produced ingredients, and from-scratch recipes “within reason,” adds Thoits, “from our seasoned fried chicken flour to all of our sauces for our sandwiches.”

Progress Report
Opened earlier this year, Upriver is already one of the hottest spots in town, especially on a busy summer afternoon. The kitchen is humming long before it opens its doors for lunchtime business. “The concept is very production focused,” Thoits says. “Our team [of 5-6] arrives each morning by 8am to [get] everything prepped and ready for service.” 

That means fresh produce from a collection of local growers, including Langley Farms, Second Spring, Lakeview Hill, Fifth Wind, and Meadowlark, among others. The oven holds slow-roasted Michigan Craft Beef, raised in Zeeland, and fresh baked goods arrive from The Mill Bakery, located at Long Lake Culinary Campus. (The bakery outgrew its space at The Mill and transitioned to the campus for the long-term. Visitors are welcome on Campus, and don’t forget to ask how to score a freshly baked baguette for just a buck.)

“The summer has been going well,” Thoits tells us. “The reception from the public has been very strong and feedback has been positive.” Thoits adds that currently, the shop is selling about 150 sandwiches every day. And a super location helps, too.

“There’s an exceptional amount of foot traffic at Upriver, due in large part to Crystal River Outfitters and all of the people that patronize their business.” 

Upriver will be a seasonal operation, Thoits explains, “but we will continue to be open…through September, potentially October, if business levels stay consistently strong.”

What’s For Lunch
First you should know: these sandwiches are huge. And we mean huge. Unless you have a hollow leg (which would be fair after a day of paddling the Crystal River), consider splitting one and saving room for a delectable side or a treat from the dessert case.

Let’s start with three Fried Chicken options: 1) fresh, tender chicken breast on a freshly baked bun with mayo and pickle; 2) ratchet it up with hot sauce (our personal favorite); 3) Or choose the Upriver, with chicken, kale slaw, Swiss cheese, and tomato. 

Oven roasted chicken is found in the Club, with thick bacon, greens, cheddar, tomato, and mayo; the Chicken Melt with peppers, onion, garlic mayo, and American cheese; and the Chicken Avocado, with greens, Swiss, and chili-lime mayo. Chef Thoits says the Chicken Avocado is “our most popular sandwich by far.

Look for slow roasted beef in the Steak & Pepper Melt, with peppers, onions, and American cheese, and the Steak Sandwich with white onion and horseradish mayo. Pork lovers will want to try the shaved Roast Pork, with broccoli rabe and Swiss or the Bacon Cubano with shaved pork, thick sliced bacon, Swiss, pickles, and honey Dijon. The ALT-B is Upriver’s version of the traditional BLT with thick bacon and avocado. 

And vegetarians will love the Veggie Melt with broccoli rabe, Swiss cucumber, and garlic vinaigrette or the Caprese Sandwich with tomato, fresh mozzarella, and basil balsamic dressing. (Gluten-free buns mean there is a sandwich for everyone.)

Substantial salad choices include the Caprese, (the favorite, hands down) and two green salads with varied toppings. Add house-roasted meat for a protein-rich meal. Sides include some really terrific seasoned waffle fries (they also come with every sandwich), plus kale slaw, pickled cucumbers, street corn, and more. Kids will love the chicken tenders, grilled cheese, and hotdogs.

Dessert is a must, with fresh baked cookies and eight flavors of Moo-ville ice cream. Moo-ville is the Nashville, Michigan-based dairy farm that produces a full line of products including small batch ice cream, using A2 milk (easier to digest) as well as Michigan beet sugar rather than high fructose corn syrup. The favorite flavors are Scotcheroo, a delectable blend of butterscotch and peanut butter ice cream with chocolate-covered rice crispies, and Graham Central Station, graham cracker ice cream with graham swirl and chocolate covered honeycomb candies.

Find Upriver at 6281 W. Western Ave., Glen Arbor. upriverfromthemill.com

 

More on the Mill
This 19th century grist mill caught the attention of real estate lawyer and investor Turner Booth in 2018 and opened in 2023. Booth, with creative director Kelsey Duda, established Fernhaus Hospitality Group, LLC, along with a small group of principals and a coterie of investors in order to “redefine and elevate hospitality in northern Michigan [through] curated offerings,” according to the Fernhaus mission statement. 

The Mill is one of five properties presently handled by Fernhaus, and it is a gorgeous reimaging. “The building was never meant to be altered,” says Fernhaus Hospitality vice-president Corey Smith, and instead is “a contemporary take on a northern Michigan landmark.” 

The interior is enhanced with contemporary layers of warm color, textures, and an eclectic collection of art and object. The Mill has a café and bakery, indoor and outdoor public spaces, shopping, and an upscale dining venue called Supper, featuring New American cuisine. The repurposed miller’s dwelling contains three quietly sophisticated lodging options. Every inch of this property was recreated with intention—and history intact—with the comforts and expectations of the 21st century visitor. 

For more information about The Mill at Glen Arbor, go to themillglenarbor.com.

 

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