Old Mission Tavern Returns

The past, present, and future of the storied peninsula restaurant

Chef and co-owner Brian Daley knows that he and partner Stephanie Krupka are setting up shop in a “beloved” landmark restaurant, and he understands the delicate balance between honoring the original site and moving forward with new flavors and methods. 

“Nostalgia is a short tightrope to walk,” Daley says, explaining that even producing the favorite dishes with the old recipes would still feel “a little different.” Instead, the new version of Old Mission Tavern will feel “homey and familiar,” with cherished flavors “done up a little bit” with newer techniques.

Simply put, Old Mission Tavern offers some favorites, some fresh interpretations, and some completely new items all aimed at honoring what came before. 

The Past

A quick recap: Old Mission Tavern was first opened by the Bartnick family in 1979 as Mission Freeze ice cream, becoming a beer-burger-pool table sort of place before emerging as the popular white tablecloth establishment that prospered until 2020, when COVID made a mess of everyone’s business plan. 

The family chose not to reopen post-pandemic, so the building sat until it was put up for sale in 2024. New partner Krupka is an Old Mission native and worked at the Tavern during college summers. 

Daley and Krupka have between them 20 years of experience in high-end restaurants: Daley at the James Beard-award-winning Blackbird (and another COVID casualty, closed after a 22-year run) and Krupka at Sepia, a Michelin recipient situated right around the corner. (Daley moved to Sepia after Blackbird closed.) 

These Chicago front-runners took American food to new dimensions without losing the comfortable vibe and gave new life to the West Loop neighborhood. Daley and Krupka brought that energy north and coupled it with thoughtfully created recipes loyal to the Tavern flavors and reminiscent of specialties of decades past. They are joined in the venture by three Chicago friends, chefs all, so keep expectations high.  

The Present

The March 18 opening was measured and confident, not flinging the doors wide open to hit the ground running, but rather to “finesse” the opening, “to make sure that everyone, [both guests and employees] have a good time,” Daley says. 

As a result, the team had no plan to fill the tavern’s 100 seat capacity, but to “start small” in the dining room at a level that is “not rushed” but comfortable and inviting. “From there,” he adds, “we’ll build up [capacity.]” 

Krupka was pleased with the first night. “Opening night was a success!” she tells us. “We were happy to welcome 75 guests into the restaurant, including some family and many local members of the community.” 

Krupka says that after years of Old Mission Tavern sitting empty, the number one goal was to get it reopened and offer longtime patrons and visitors a familiar ambiance. “The building has a charming feel to it,” she says, and no large-scale renos were done, with the team keeping the same footprint, plus the existing carpet, tables, and chairs. 

The walls have been painted a rich, deep blue highlighted by an “eclectic selection of décor.”  The biggest change is the addition of an HVAC system in the main dining room, ending the need for space heaters used by the previous owners to cut the chill. 

The Future

For this first season (when the weather warms up), guests will find the patio open as a cocktail space. Lunch will begin next year, and eventually the back room will be used for expanded dining and special events. 

For the foreseeable future, the team is committed to making some new history in this storied location. Adds Chef Daley, “I can’t say it enough: This was a beloved restaurant. We want to make sure things go well.”

The Menu

Expect some classic starters, like Steak Tartare with egg yolk jam, Caesar salad, or Prince Edward Island Mussels. (“Mussels will always be on the menu,” says Daley.) 

Or choose Ribollita, a Tuscan-style stew; Charred Cabbage with black olives, tahini, pinenuts, and honey vinaigrette; Welsh Rarebit with melted aged cheddar on toasted sourdough with leeks and mushrooms; and Twice Baked Sweet Potatoes with salsa macha and goat cheese.

Entrees include the Beef Delmonico, cooked sous vide to 130 degrees, then grilled to order, with mashed potatoes, and mushroom and onion jus. (Sous vide is the French water bath method, yielding perfectly tender meats.)

The Rainbow Trout is raised in streams fed by artesian aquifers, arriving fresh, never frozen, then pan-fried and served with sunchoke, bacon, and kale salad, with beer Blanc, a reduction of beer, clam juice, cream, and butter. 

The Roasted Half-Chicken, resting on toasted sourdough with chicken liver mousse, cherry jam, and pearl onions is “absolutely delicious,” and might become a new favorite of the liver and onions fans. 

Diners will want to try the Lamb Sugo (Italian for Sunday Gravy), a thick meat sauce over hand-cut pasta, garlic cream, artichoke, and herb blend. And don’t miss the Breaded Pork Chop, bone-in, with polenta and roasted Brussel sprouts; or the Venison Stuffed Cabbage, with coffee miso jus and root vegetables.

Look for featured Sunday Chicken Dinners and Prime Rib Specials, plus simple desserts featuring the bounty of the peninsula. 

Behind the bar, Krupka has a minimalist approach to spirits, wines, and brews. 

“Too many choices are not a luxury,” she explains. That’s a refreshing take in this world of complicated mixology and ponderous wine lists. Instead, expect classic cocktails with simple updates, a selection of popular brews, and a dozen wines, by the glass or the bottle, representing our region, plus Oregon, Italy, France, Argentina, and the Iberian Peninsula. 

Find Old Mission Tavern at 17015 Center Rd. in Traverse City. (231) 223-7280; oldmissiontaverntc.com

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