Black Star Farms' 2017 Sur Lie Chardonnay

Bottoms Up

Maybe you think you don’t like Chardonnay. Understandable. Although it’s a malleable grape that springs well from just about any growing region in the world, its ubiquitousness seems to have branded it a wine that is — and sometimes tastes — all too common. Thankfully, Black Star Farms has reminded us that Chardonnay isn’t always of the rich, buttery, oaky character that permeates even pizza menus. That style is, in fact, but one of dozens. And Black Star has decisively sought another: a dry and — as its maker aptly terms it — “flinty, steely” Chardonnay, whose mineral notes come courtesy of a fermentation spent in stainless steel rather than oak barrels. To us, the alteration elevates the wine’s weight and flavor, allowing a hint of spiced apple and pear to shine in a lightly creamy texture that pairs perfectly — we know because we tested it all weekend long — with hot and humid summer days. We found ours for $16.99 at Cherry Bend Grocery, 10200 E. Cherry Bend Rd., Traverse City. Find more retailers (or directions to Black Star Farms’ tasting rooms) at www.blackstarfarms.com

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