Hattie‘s: New Owners, Same Standard of Dining Excellence

Dec. 8, 2004

Hattie’s is known in gourmet restaurant circles as one of the top 10 fine dining establishments in the state. The restaurant recently changed owners and they aim to keep both the record and perhaps even surpass it.
Sam and Michelle Hybels of Suttons Bay officially took over on October 12. “I left for Lansing to get our liquor license after the real estate closing and 40 minutes before opening our first night, I got back with it,” said Sam with a grin.
The restaurant does indeed continue to serve liquor as well as fine wines, including an emphasis on those of local vintners. But what Hattie’s is known for is consistent attentive service, attention to detail and wonderful food exquisitely prepared. Much of the restaurant’s success is due to chef Patty Hickman.
Owner Sam had read about Hattie’s national credentials 12 years ago in a culinary publication while he was still at the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute. Since then, he has worked as a chef in cities including Chicago, New York and LA. Locally, he has been a chef at LaBecasse, Key to the County and Sugar Loaf. In between chef stints he worked in the orchards “to pay the bills.” Often Hybels drove his tractor past Hattie’s with a tug at his heart to perhaps one day work there.
Eventually, he was hired on. “It was great to work in such an establishment with a strong culinary representative quality kitchen. It raises an eyebrow on a resumè,” he said. Now, as new owner, Hybels credits former Hattie’s partners/owners Jim Milliman and Rob Giffer. “They made this restaurant the success it is.”
Launched in the late-’80s, early ‘90s, Hattie’s was named after Jim’s grandmother, who inspired his own efforts as a chef.

STRONG STAFF
What clinched the deal for Hybels and his wife to buy the restaurant was the quality of the staff. They include chef Patty Hickman, Carrie Hanson, Jason Ollila and Cameron Bradshaw. In addition to those familiar faces, Hybels is continuing the restaurant’s much-loved art gallery which has featured the works of local artists for more than a decade.
Hattie’s new menu still offers some of chef Milliman’s favorite appetizers, such as Sautéed Mushroom Duxelle Ravioli, a Hattie’s classic presented in a rich morel sauce. New on the menu is the Black Star Combo – an aperitif alongside a tasting of cheeses from Black Star Farms and Leelanau Creamery of Suttons Bay; French Camembert Fondue with Pear - the cheese is presented in a reduction of Woodchuck Hard Cider and then finished with white truffle oil. Another tempting offering is their Caramelized Sea Scallops, served beside a Middle Eastern carrot slaw with a lime beurre blanc. Chef Hickman’s varied soups go beyond the ordinary – many have a base that often takes several days to make before simmering into sublime tasting perfections.
Salads will never disappoint. “We buy nothing but the freshest greens from Meadow-lark Farms and TLC and they are all organically grown,” Hickman remarked. Hattie’s house greens are served with fresh lemon, olive oil and garlic which comes with your entrée. Or you may order Carlson’s smoked Whitefish and Endive, served with a light horseradish and country mustard dressing. Their veggies – also primarily organic – are from Mike Werp who is a year ‘round grower. Mushrooms are grown by Jim Moses of Cedar.

DUCK & MOLÈ
Entrees include Ginger Snap encrusted Walleye – the fillet is sautéed and draped with an elegant barbecue beurre blanc; Wild Pacific Salmon – Chef Selection where the menu quotes, “There is a fine line between fishing and standing onshore like an idiot.”
Or how about trying Grilled Duck Breast with Molè? This is a classic Mexican presentation served with sweet potato and a delectably unusual leek hash. Perhaps in the mood for beef? Try either Filet Mignon on a Porcini Demi Glace, drizzled with truffle oil, or center cut New York Strip which is rubbed with olive oil, sea salt, cracked black pepper, garlic and then grilled and finished with fresh lemon. Another favorite is Hattie’s Roasted Pumpkin Ravioli, in a tasty fennel broth with spicy, toasted walnuts and Asiago cheese.
Hattie’s offers nightly special fish “additions,” explained Hickman. “Besides local fish mongers Carlson’s of Leland and Will Kingston from the Upper Peninsula, fresh fish from the Atlantic Ocean is shipped overnight from various states,” she said.
Desserts – save room for in both your palate and pocketbook – are delicious. Try Maple Crème Brulee, or how about a warm, chocolate Lava Cake; a rich chocolate cake baked to order and served with their exclusive house-made anise and saffron scented caramel sauce (please allow extra time for this one, they suggest). Another favorite is Sweet French Baguette Bread Pudding with a rich vanilla egg custard and sun dried Wisconsin cranberries, finished with a compote of dark sweet Leelanau County cherries.

TO THE THEATER
A long-time popular dining delight is the Theater Menu, which is available nightly. It’s a special dinner for those who may wish to go to the nearby Bay Theater for entertainment afterwards. Hattie’s continues to offer Milliman’s, Jim’s Chicken Liver Pate as a first course for the special. The second course is Hattie’s house greens. Third choices include a grilled pork chop, massaged with toasted flavors and then finished with Hattie’s cherry-barbeque sauce. Or try Balsamic Braised Chicken: “It is a free-range chicken simmered slowly with a reduction of syrupy glaze,” explained Hybels. Another menu offering is Pinot Noir, Marina-ted Butcher’s Steak–a London broil bathed overnight in soy, honey and pinot noir then finish-ed with a blue cheese compound butter.
Don’t forget Hickman’s “choice of the night” - Great Lakes perch, whitefish or walleye.
Last but not least, Hattie’s maintains an extensive selection of after-dinner beverages. It is a fine way to cap off a memorable dining experience, attended to by a staff that is receptive, attentive and aiming to please. “We want to attract the neighbors with more accessible options and exciting events including our live jazz every Friday,” Hybels added. “We want them to feel most welcome here.”
Hattie’s is located at 111 St. Joseph Street, Suttons Bay. Phone (231) 271-6222. Reservations recommended.