The Eat List

A "RestauranTour" of where to eat this fall

Sept. 15, 2018

Please be seated for these abbreviated versions of the restaurant reviews we’ve featured since our last RestauranTour issue.

The Boyne River Inn – Boyne City
The Boyne River Inn (BRI)’s, origins trace back to 1893, when the city was at the crossroads of flourishing lumber, brick-making, and tannery industries, and the Water Street pub was the place to do business or relax after a hard day’s work. Today, it’s decorated in a time-honored northern Michigan style: pine wood walls, wood tables, standard dining chairs, and a long bar backed by a grand mirror. Guests can enjoy river views from the restaurant’s interior, but deck seating overlooking the Boyne River is also available as long as the weather permits.
On the Menu: Open year-round, seven days a week, the BRI makes nearly everything homemade, from scratch. Brand new to the restaurant is a breakfast menu, including drunken French toast and the BRI’s signature Rise and Shine Breakfast — two eggs, hash browns, toast, and your choice of meat or fruit. For lunch, the Reuben sandwich or the BRI Club are contenders for No. 1 picks; for dinner, the local walleye is a sure bet. Served with wild rice pilaf, toasted almonds, and steamed broccoli, the fish is locally caught by Charlevoix’s John Cross Fisheries. Fridays, the BRI rolls out one of the area’s most popular Friday night cod fish-fries; and Saturdays, it’s time for prime rib, served with maple-glazed carrots and garlic mashed potatoes.
Find Them: The Boyne River Inn is located at 229 Water St., Boyne City. Open seven days a week. (231) 582-6300, facebook.com/BoyneRiverInn
 
Bella Fortuna – Lake Leelanau
What do you do when you fall in love with Italy and live in northern Michigan? The owners of Bella Fortuna in Lake Leelanau did just that, and set a goal of reproducingthe dining and cultural experiences that they had overseas. Open from Memorial Day to mid-October, Bella Fortuna invites their dinner guests to “dine like a Florentine.” Florentine cuisine is considered to be one of the most sophisticated in Europe, as it combines both delicate and hearty flavors and approaches them with a “slow-food” method, meaning you take your time dining so as not to rush the experience. Located in an historic building that includes a Belgian mahogany bar dating back to the late 1800s, the restaurant’s interior space includes a fireplace and comfortable seating.
On the Menu: Two of the most popular dishes at Bella Fortuna involve pasta — namely, their fresh fettuccini and potato gnocchi, both made fresh on-site. The fettuccini — Salvia e Zucchini— is served with parmesan cheese, pressed sage, and zucchini; the gnocchi is available with either pomodoro (tomato) sauce or a gorgonzola cheese sauce. Another popular dish is their Vitello al Tartufo, a savory veal scaloppini. For appetizers, try the summer flavors of Proscuitto E Melone, seasonal melon topped with Italian cured meats, or the calamari served with marinara sauce and lemon, lightly flash-fried. Desserts include house-made tiramisu and chocolate flourless cake. And the restaurant also offers a full wine cellar that includes wines from their own vineyards in northern Michigan and in Italy.
Find Them: Bella Fortuna restaurant is located at 104 W. Main St., Lake Leelanau (just south of M-204). Open Mondays through Saturdays until mid-October. (231) 994-2400, www.bellafortunarestaurant.com

Harbor Cafe – Elk Rapids
There is history in this little building tucked into the middle of River Street. Built in 1948, it started out as the unimaginatively dubbed White Front Café. It wasn't until 1987, when a new owner took it over, that it was reborn as the Harbor Café. A nautical theme was chosen for the logo, exterior, and interior; an anchor and a life ring hang outside; and large photos of northern Michigan sailboats and lighthouses line the walls of the dining room, along with other boating memorabilia and handmade items from area friends and patrons. Two picnic tables on the sidewalk out front provide extra seating during the busiest months, and it’s dog-friendly dining, too. (The owner has two dachshunds.)
On the Menu: The Cinnamon Swirl Pancakes are a must-try. You think they can’t possibly taste as good as they look, but they actually taste even better. Then there’s the Blueberries-N-Cream and Cherries-N-Cream Stuffed French Toast. Other French toast options include Peanut Butter and Banana or Peanut Butter and Jelly versions, both of which are huge favorites with not only children but also plenty of adults. In the savory department, the Reuben Omelette (corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing) is one of the big sellers. There’s also a Bacon Cheeseburger Omelette that has its own legion of fans, as does the cafe’s legendary Cherry Cactus Chili, a combination of cactus, dried cherries, ground beef, beans, and corn.
Find Them: The Harbor Café is located at 129 River St., Elk Rapids. Closed Wednesdays. (231) 264-8700, www.harborcafeelkrapids.weebly.com

Aerie – Acme
The 16th floor of the Grand Traverse Resort’s tower is a perfect place to enjoy the changing scene that spring is bringing — and not just outside the 360-degree sweep of windows that affords panoramic views of East Grand Traverse Bay and the surrounding countryside from every seat in the resort’s premier restaurant, Aerie. Exciting changes are also taking place inside these days: Aerie is rolling out a new website, new events, a newly remodeled and redesigned bar/lounge area, and a major menu makeover.
On the Menu: The only dish remaining from the former menu is the signature Aerie salad (organic field greens, cherry vinaigrette, cucumber ring, pickled red onion, candied pecans, Maytag blue cheese, dried cherries), which is a longtime customer favorite. A peek at the rest of that new menu shows some perennial spring leanings in the mix. There’s creamed pea and leek soup, tempura asparagus, and wild mushroom risotto, as well as intriguing riffs on artichokes, mussels, seabass, filet mignon, ahi tuna, and more.Enjoy it all from Aerie’sincredible vantage point, 200 feet above the bay, with an elegant yet relaxed dining atmosphere, a Wine Spectator-awarded wine list, and a real dedication to craft cocktails and craft food.
Find Them: Aerie Restaurant and Lounge is located inside the Grand Traverse Resort at 100 Grand Traverse Village Blvd., Acme. Open seven days a week. (231) 534-6800, www.grandtraverseresort.com/aerie

The Good Bowl – Traverse City
In 1979, Soon Hagerty’s parents and their seven children fled an uncertain future in post-war Vietnam as “boat people” with the dream of finding a safe and promising new life in the United States. They were among the lucky ones who made it, settling in California. In July of this year, Hagerty followed her own dream and founded a Vietnamese restaurant in Traverse City.The restaurant offers a modern, bustling café vibe, with warm colors and contrasting textures creating an elegant yet casual atmosphere. Evocative paintings and framed color photographs of Vietnamese scenes chosen by Hagerty on trips back to her native country provide striking focal points along the grass-cloth-covered wall above the dining tables.
On the Menu: The current menu, while small, is so tempting that it’s hard to choose what to order. Among other things, it includes Goi Cuon(fresh summer rolls with lettuce, seasonal herbs, vermicelli noodles and choice of shrimp or tofu, rolled in rice paper and served with peanut sauce); Ga Rang Muoi(Vietnamese chicken wings, salt brined, seasoned with a special house rub, flash-fried, and served with chili-lime dipping sauce);and, of course, the undisputed national dish of Vietnam, Pho— pronounced “fuh”— rice noodle soup with aromatic house-made bone broth, scallions, sweet onion, cilantro and choice of tofu, chicken or beef, and Vietnamese meatballs. There’s only one dessert, but it’s a good one: fried banana fritters drizzled with dulce de leche, topped with vanilla ice cream.
Find Them: The Good Bowl is located at 328 East Front St., Traverse City. Open Tuesdays through Saturdays. (231) 252-2662. www.goodbowleatery.com.

The Roost at Bay Bread Co. – Traverse City
The Roost, upstairs from Bay Bread’s main bakery is gently termed as “overflow seating,” but to those who know the space, it’s so much more than that: a cozy, informal gathering place with a lovely view of West Grand Traverse Bay, where customers can sit and relax while enjoying a delicious sandwich and sipping a cup of coffee or tea.The cheerful two-story yellow brick building with bright accents of rooster-comb red that has housed the Bay Bread Company since 1998 dates back to the 19th century; today, chairs, tables and decorative objects from the owner’s mom and grandma create a cozy, welcoming French Country-style environment. Here’s how The Roost works: Customers order and pay for their food and drinks at the counter downstairs in Bay Bread’s bakery, and when the food is ready, everything is delivered to their table upstairs in The Roost. Pots of coffee (from local Roaster Jack’s) are self-serve, but specialty coffees from the upstairs espresso machine are made and served by the staff member who delivers your food.
On the Menu: Hungry for breakfast? Try the not-as-dangerous-as-it-sounds The Devil (egg, Havarti, onions and roasted peppers with mayo and mustard on ciabatta), homemade oatmeal, or one of Bay Bread’s specialty pastries — a tempting array of sticky buns, scones, muffins, or cinnamon rolls. The bakery now makes its own bagels, too. For lunch, there are five salads and one daily soup (which can be served in a sourdough bread bowl upon request). But not surprisingly — this is a bakery after all — sandwiches are the main attraction here. The menu lists 22 different kinds: a selection of deli, grilled or toasted, with customer favorites like the Grinder, the Club, the Chipotle BLT, and the Pepper Parm Turkey. It’s the bakery’s own bread that makes the sandwiches so popular.
Find Them: The Roost is located on the upper level of the Bay Bread Company at 601 Randolph St. in Traverse City. Open Mondays through Saturdays. (231) 922-8022, www.baybreadco.com.

Bay Burrito Co. – Suttons Bay
The owners of Bay Burrito Co. moved up from downstate in part to bring Mexican street food to the Leelanau Peninsula, with a primary criteria for the cafe: find a location that had a water view. That goal was met when they found a building overlooking the marina of Suttons Bay. The cafe’s interior sports shiplap countertops and colors that blend Mexico-inspired hues with those of the Michigan waters right outside the cafe’s doors: muted desert yellow, lakeside turquoise, warm woods, and nautical blues. One great feature is the eatery’s rack of rolled-up blankets that you can check out, library style, with your takeout food for a picnick in the nearby park.
On the Menu: The food sticks close to what you might find at a Mexican food stand; the Friedmans bring in many of their ingredients from local vendors and farmers. The menu is simple and hearty, with just-spicy-enough seasonings and generous portions. Burritos and bowls include beef, chicken, and vegetarian options, including The Bruce, which includes both beef and chicken; and The Carmi, which features rice, black beans, sweet potato, kale, pumpkin seeds, pico de gallo, and a jalapeno dressing. The quesadillas, also available as chicken, beef, beef and chicken, or vegetarian, arrive perfectly browned and fat with fillings. And everything from the burritos to the tacos can be topped with Bay Burrito’s signature cilantro-lime crema. To counter the spice, guests can pick up a Jarritos, a traditional Mexican soda available in a variety of flavors; for dessert, grab a cookie baked fresh for Bay Burrito Co. from Potter’s Bakery in Traverse City.
Find Them: Bay Burrito Co. is located at 206 St. Joseph St., in Suttons Bay. Open June–November, closed Mondays. (231) 866-4082, www.bayburritocompany.com

French Quarter – Charlevoix
Enticement comes in many forms at the French Quarter, including the many irresistibles on its Cajun- and Creole-inspired lunch and dinner menu, as well as the restaurant’s enviable location overlooking picturesque Round Lake harbor and the historic drawbridge over Pine Ridge Channel, just steps from Charlevoix’s charming downtown shopping district. Think this kind of cuisine might be more than your palate can handle? Chef Matthew Weeber is quick to dispel a couple of common misconceptions: It’s not all spicy, and it’s not all made with “exotic” (for northern Michigan) ingredients like alligator, crawfish, okra and collard greens, though they of course do show up in some dishes on the menu.
On the Menu: If you’ve visited New Orleans, or even if you’ve only read about it, you probably know that certain dishes are ubiquitous to the city. You’ll find those and more here, too — sometimes with a local spin. Try étouffée made with lake trout; the French Quarter’s gumbo; or their most popular appetizer, shrimp and grits. The iconic Po’boy and Muffuletta sandwiches get their due here, too, the latter with all of the classic elements plus the addition of artichoke hearts and chickpeas. Vegetarians take note: While the French Quarter menu may at first glance seem animal-protein heavy, it also features several meat- and seafood-free options, and some other dishes can be adapted to be vegetarian upon request. Three-Mushroom Ravioli with garlic and parmesan, baked feta with spinach and tomato on house-made herbed focaccia, and red beans and rice (the collard greens are cooked without pork) are just some of the available choices, as well as various salads and soups, and two pizza variations.
Find Them: The French Quarter is located at 100 Michigan Ave., in Charlevoix. Open seven days a week. (231) 758-3801, facebook.com/frenchquartercharlevoix

Bentley Hill Bakehouse - Charlevoix
Newly opened this summer, the bright new building housing Bentley Hill Bakehouse is clean, white, and minimalistic, with wood plank floors, wood tables, metal chairs, great tall ceilings, and art collated by the building’s previous tenant, Round Lake Art Gallery — it’s all very Charlevoix-centric, with image of lighthouses, sunsets, and water. One body of water in particular has special meaning to the Bakehouse: Round Lake, which can be viewed from the Bakehouse’s outdoor seating. They’ve also named their most popular menu item after the lake — the Round Lake Roll, a cinnamon roll that’s the talk and taste of the town; it’s a soft cinnamon roll made from dough that’s made the night before in a 16-hour process, with a cinnamon swirl throughout and glaze on top. Get there early, though; Round Lake Rolls usually sell out by 9 or 10am.
On the Menu: The menu at the Bakehouse is still growing, anchored by those cinnamon delights. They also offer simple treats like cookies and breads, and lots of muffins, brownies, and lemon bars, plus a special blueberry coffee cake. Cupcakes and custom cake orders with detailed frosting and decorations and fondant are also available, as are “smash cakes” for little kids. The bakery’s attractive location on the lake also makes it a great place to sit with a cup of coffee or tea and enjoy your sweet bakery treats; they also plan to add soup and bread in the winter months, with the goal of being a year-round bakery for the Charlevoix community.
Find Them: The Bentley Hill Bakehouse is located at 325 Bridge St., in Charlevoix. Call for hours. (231) 437-3395, facebook.com/bentleyhillbakehouse.
 
The Grand Café and Bakery – Traverse City
The Grand Café and Bakery, which opened in 2015 at Cherry Republic’s Traverse City location, operates under a whimsical motto: “Eat, Drink and Be Cherry.” The red hue that permeates the logo, décor, packaging and signage throughout the space makes it quickly obvious: This is basically a year-round cherry fest, presided over by Boomer the Bear, Cherry Republic’s lovable but mischievous mascot, who is said to have an insatiable sweet tooth. The Grand Café and Bakery occupies the back third of the Traverse City Cherry Republic store, where a curved wooden half-wall defines the space. Wire-caged filament bulbs hang from exposed wooden ceiling beams, casting a warm glow over the sturdy, dark-wood tables and chairs (with cherry-red upholstered seats) below. Rustic wide-plank pine floors, white subway-tile walls, colorful chalkboard menus, and whimsical retro signs complete the eclectic décor.
On the Menu: Featuring snacks, soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas, and desserts, the menu showcases a wide array of products from the retail section, so that people can see how the items can be used and how versatile they are. The ice cream is all homemade, with up to 16 different cherry-themed flavors at a time; customers are invited to try any of them, whether you prefer Cherry Cuckoo-Nut, Pie in the Sky, or My Life is a Circus. Savory menu items include the cherry chicken salad (you can also have it as a sandwich or as a wrap); the Parmesan-crusted grilled cheese on Parmesan-coated cherry bread; and the Cuban sandwich, a combination of shaved ham, shredded pork, melted Swiss cheese, house-made pickles, and cherry artisan mustard pressed between two slices of Cuban bread, which is made for the Café locally by the Bay Bread Company. Pizzas are also available as 7-inch or 12-inch pies and by the slice (gluten-free upon request), with seven varieties to choose from; people are said to swoon over the bacon and blue fig jam pizza in particular. And any Cherry Republic products highlighted in red on the menu are available for purchase in the store.
Find Them: The Grand Café and Bakery is located inside Cherry Republic at 154 East Front St., Traverse City. Open seven days a week. (231) 932-9205, www.cherryrepublic.com

Pine Hill Garden Café – Kewadin
There aren’t many eateries where you can order a pizza, a glass of beer, and a forsythia bush. But that’s the thing at Pine Hill Nursery in Kewadin: What started as a nursery has morphed over the years into a gift shop, greenhouse, music venue, and yes, a café. It offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner; beer and wine; and live music — only with dahlias, kids’ plant workshops, and landscape design services, too. They also grow their own plants from seeds nurtured inside 30,000 square feet of greenhouse; and what better to do with the vegetables and herbs than use them in their own restaurant?
On the Menu: With a quarter-acre garden for vegetables, the chef bases the menu on what’s available and what’s in season, creating her own specialties. Often mentioned are the crab cakes “to die for,” a meat and cheese board, and wood-fired Italian pizza. The menu has evolved over time, based on the ideas and requests of customers who would stop in briefly, and then leave in search of something to eat. The nursery first started offering ice cream, then gradually added breakfast, then lunch featuring salads and sandwiches. Five years ago they added dinner, and that grew as well, from pizza, burgers, and brats to whitefish and other choices.
Find Them: Pine Hill Nursery, Garden Center, and Restaurant is located at 886 US-31, Kewadin. Open through the first week of October; afterward, weather dependent. Call ahead. (231) 599-2824, www.pinehill-nursery.com

Bière de Mac – Mackinaw City
The Ranville family opened Bière de Mac(the name is a nod to their French descendants) in January 2017. It’s a known fact that winter is not the best time to open a new business in northern Michigan — especially in the food and beverage industry — but as it turned out, it was the right time for this venture, as it allowed the unique destination to get into their rhythm. Inspired by the lack of craft breweries in the Straits area, Bière de Mac’s owner did a lot of research on their own to learn the craft, aiming at having more than “just” good beer; they wanted to have the kind of beer that people couldn’t just get anywhere else, plus exceptional food.
On the Menu: The menu is certainly diverse. BBQ Chicken Sweet Potato Poutine shares the spotlight with Dirty Chips (house-made potato chips, warm chopped bacon, shredded roast chicken, melted blue cheese, green onion, green chile crème fraîche) and a Baba Ganoush Platter. Then there’s the Ale and Cheddar Chowder (made with Bière de Mac’s own ale, and garnished with white cheddar-cheese popcorn);  the Crunchy Whitefish Goujons with fish delivered fresh daily from Big Stone Bay Fishery; and the Mackinaw Platter, which features cured meats, smoked whitefish dip, tavern cheese spread, ripe fig spread, beer mustard, crackers, warm flatbread, seasonal fruit garnish). Burgers (try the Jalapeño Popper Burger or the Mushroom Lover’s Burger) and “Naanwiches” (sandwiches on naan bread) are favorites as well, including an Asian Chicken version with Asian cilantro slaw, and sriracha mayo.
Find Them: Bière de Mac Brew Works is located at 14277 Mackinaw Hwy., Mackinaw City, just 800 yards south of I-75 exit 337. Closed Mondays.  (231) 427-7007, www.bieredemac.com