Tastemakers: The Cove‘s Escargo & Shrimp - Fishtown White

June 8, 2005

There are certain places that capture the “essence” of the Leelanau Peninsula and one of those is the deck at The Cove in Fishtown (Leland). Sitting on the upper sun deck and taking in the views of the fishing tugs and the Manitou islands as the water rushes over the Fishtown dam is one of summer’s great delights. Rick Wanroy, proprietor of The Cove, believes that to best accentuate these natural amenities, great service, food and wine are a must. One crowd pleaser is the escargot and shrimp dish found on the appetizer menu, but certainly with a bowl of their famous Seafood Chowder (Gourmet Magazine has asked for the closely guarded recipe), the combination easily becomes a meal.
Prepared to perfection the escargot and shrimp are sautéed in garlic butter and then placed in either a bread bowl or on top of a sliced homemade dinner roll. Freshly shredded Parmesan and chopped red bell peppers are added to expand the flavor profile of the dish. Be sure to use any leftover bread to soak up the garlic butter sauce. Try pairing with Good Harbor’s Fishtown White (see Bottoms Up).
The Escargot and Shrimp plate remains one of the most popular items at the annual Leland Wine Festival (June 11) and Rick promises it will be back, but get it early as the supply is limited. At least one visit to The Cove should be on the “must do” list this summer. If escargot is not your thing, no worries, try a little local flavor and order Chef Igor’s (from Latvia) famous Smoked Whitefish Pate served warm with crackers.


FISHTOWN WHITE

Winemaker and proprietor Bruce Simpson of Good Harbor Vineyards in Leland is a third generation fruit grower on the Leelanau Peninsula. While the Leland Wine Fest (Simpson was a part of the founding committee -- see article) is celebrating its 20th Anniversary, Simpson and his winery are celebrating their 25th this year. Simpson and his wife Debbie are one of the pioneers of the Leelanau wine industry that now boasts 14 wineries (five more are projected in the next two years).
Good Harbor has built their reputation on quality, affordable everyday drinking wines. While the Reserve Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio are among the best in the Midwest, this week is all about Leland, and Simpson’s Fishtown White is an equally delightful wine. A blend of Vignole, Seyval (both French hybrids) Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, this dry white wine, with the fruit forward and light hints of oak, pairs well with many summertime favorites like grilled chicken or blackened whitefish. Also try with a spinach salad.
The Simpsons love local art and several of their wine labels come from paintings by area artists including the Fishtown White label by Leland artist William Chatfield. Good Harbor wines are distributed around the state and Fishtown White is on several restaurant wine lists and will be at the Leland Wine Festival this weekend. Their tasting room (three miles south of Leland) gives visitors a bird’s-eye view of the winemaking process. At $7 a bottle ($72 bucks a case) Simpson has blended quality and value, a trademark of his from the day he opened. --- Rick Coates