Pearl’s, Queen of Creole

Dec. 7, 2014

Opening an ethnic restaurant in the middle of a small town in northern Michigan is a risky proposition, particularly when its menu features items like Andouille sausage, crawfish etouffée and alligator.

Fred Moore, Mary Palmer and Jim Cartwright–aka Magnum Hospitality–didn’t see it that way. They believed they had a good chance to mimic the success of their Red Mesa Grill, which had introduced Boyne City to Latin cuisine.

So, they fearlessly opened Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen in Elk Rapids and, 16 years later, the good times continue to roll.

"It’s unique," said Fred Moore of Pearl’s Creole and Cajun cooking. "It was something that was not being done."

THE SCENE

Though wildly successful today, Pearl’s was far from a sure thing. As the restaurant’s website says, "We can still recall the sincere concern of all those who went out of their way at the time to ask us, "˜What are you, nuts?’" Moore explains that the former Rainbow Gardens was a hot spot when the Cairn Highway served as US 31 and they hoped to revive that feeling. "They had dances there in the 20s," says Moore.

But, by the time Magnum took over the property, it had lost its luster.

Moore and Palmer took a research trip to New Orleans’ famed Papadeaux Seafood Kitchen and decided that was the direction they’d explore. "Papadeaux was kind of a seafood and Cajun place. It had a good feel."

At the time, the entire food industry was undergoing a sea change. Chefs such as Emeril Lagasse (a protégé of celebrated Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme), Bobby Flay and Mario Batali were becoming celebrities. The Food Network was one of the country’s fastestgrowing networks. Ethnic food, organic food and spicy food were on the way in at the expense of traditional (read: stuffy) fine dining.

"The vibe of coat and tie was heading out," Moore says.

Pearl’s seized the opportunity to head in.

Its festive atmosphere and engaging menu were the right things at the right time.

THE MENU

Your first clue that things are out of the ordinary is at the top of the menu: Bayou Alligator, served Southern-fried or blackened. It’s not likely you’ll find crawfish and corn chowder, shrimp and grits, bronzed pork Bienville or many other Pearl’s specialties anywhere else in the region.

Everywhere you look, it’s a Creole and Cajun free-for-all: Gumbo Ya Ya (chunks of chicken and spicy Andouille sausage over rice), red bean cakes with Cajun cream sauce and roasted corn salsa and New Orleans style BBQ shrimp.

Need more choices? Try the crawfish enchiladas, the spicy étouffée with garlic crawfish, blackened shrimp or Andouille sausage over dirty rice, or Caribbean tuna with roasted curried sweet potatoes.

THE BEST

Pressed for the best items on such a wildly eclectic menu, Moore points to the beef brisket and the étouffée. The latter is smothered with a roux-based sauce.

"The recipes are from country people trying to stretch their food," he says. If you’re really adventurous, go for the Louisiana jambalaya. It’s proudly proclaimed Pearl’s spiciest dish with chicken, shrimp and tasso (smoked pork) simmered with tomatoes, rice, onions, garlic and more.

For smaller, or slightly less adventurous, palates, the fried green tomato muffuletta offers great flavor in a handy size.

THE REST OF THE STORY

And the fun doesn’t stop with the food.

The very first thing you see when you open the menu is the Hurricane, a mix of dark rum, light rum and fruit juice served in a hurricane glass.

Other featured drinks include Miss Laurie’s Golden Margarita with Cuervo Gold tequila, Cointreau and Grand Marnier; Pearl’s Moonshine with gin, vodka, Limon rum and a splash of Sprite; Sazerac with bourbon, sugar, bitters and absinthe; and an oyster shooter made from a fresh-shucked oyster with jalapeño-steeped vodka and cocktail sauce.

The interior of the restaurant contributes to the festive atmosphere with vibrant red hues complemented by a coterie of N’awlinsthemed displays.

Moore says keeping Pearl’s "top of mind" is a challenge, so the restaurant hosts events like their Mardi Gras party and its own Crawfish Festival, as well as celebrating Bluegrass, Bourbon, Blues, & Beer with Short’s Brewing.

THE SKINNY

Appetizers start at $6.49, soups at $3.99.

Dinner specialties start at $14.99, $8.99 for lunch specialties. Po’ Boys and muffulettas start at $9.99.

Pearl’s is located at 617 Ames Street in Elk Rapids. They are open Monday through Thursday 11am to 10pm, 11am to 11pm on Friday and Saturday and 10am to 10pm on Sunday.

For information call 231-264-0530 or visit www.MagnumHospitality.com or the Pearl’s Facebook page.