Soup, the Universal Comfort Food

7 bowls you need to try in NoMi

By Geri Dietze | Feb. 11, 2023

Call it soup, sop, le potage, zuppa, or juha, among others, but they all mean the same thing: a big bowl of goodness. Northern Express has found seven standout soups from some of the region’s most popular eateries to fill you up and chase the February chills away.

Viva la Soupe à l’oignon!

Great Lakes Grill, 817 East State St. in Cheboygan, greatlakesgrillcheboygan.com, (231) 627-8161
Owners Dave and Shari Salewske are willing to share some—but not all—of the recipe for their Baked French Onion soup, a menu staple for decades. First, everything is house made: The soup stock, with beef bones, carrots, celery, and onions, cooks for 24 hours on the flattop. “Slow and low,” says Shari. “That makes all the difference,” adds chef Dave. Every 20-quart batch—they make two batches weekly—contains about a dozen colossal Vidalia onions, slow cooked in butter for six hours for perfect caramelizing. (The five-ingredient seasoning blend is a closely-held secret.) White bread croutons are substantial enough to float under pillows of Swiss cheese but still soft and chewy so you can dive right in. (Croutons, too, have their own secret seasonings.) Patrons call this version of French Onion “one of the best they’ve ever had.”

Score One for Spike’s

Spike’s Keg O Nails, 301 N. James St in Grayling, spikeskegonails.com, (989) 348-7113
The Chili Bowl at Spike’s is a generational favorite. Their special freshly-ground beef gets its kick from the house-made spice blend, while the sauteed celery, onions, and green peppers up the flavor ante. Mexican red beans—the pinto’s small, tender cousin—provide authenticity. Simmer for about six hours, and then get ready: This is chili for the true aficionado, and proof is in the sales. Spike’s sells at least a gallon of chili daily, usually more, and about 400 gallons over the course of the year.

Just Like Nana’s

Lake Street Market and Deli, 306 S. Lake St. in Boyne City, lakestreetmarket.com, (231) 582-4450
Your grandmother’s classic recipe is channeled in this hearty, homemade Chicken Noodle soup. Start with house-made parsley noodles, thick-rolled and wide-cut. (The noodles in their Beef Noodle soup are elevated with freshly ground peppercorns.) Next add chunks of fresh, slow-roasted chicken, seasoned just right. Then bring in the color with an array of garden vegetables and simmer it all, slowly, in a soothing, substantial broth. Surely, this would make any Chicken Noodle top 10 list.

Variety to Keep You Coming Back, Again and Again

Trish’s Dishes, 407 S. Main St. in Leland, trishesdishes.com, (231) 994-2288
The Signature Tomato Basil Bisque, with its fresh, light flavors and creamy texture, is a menu standout, but the number of soups in and out of rotation is dizzying. Here’s a fair selection from the roster: Mushroom Barley; Cream of Chicken and Mushroom; Beef Barley with Sauteed Vegetables; Chicken Curry; Chicken Sausage Jambalaya; Beef Vegetable; Kale and White Bean; and Sweet Potato, Parsnip, and Squash Bisque. This is an incomplete list, but you get the idea—Trish’s Dishes has the soup.

Close Your Eyes, and You’re in the Big Easy

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen, 617 Ames St. in Elk Rapids, pearlsneworleanskitchen.com, (231) 264-0530
In short: Go for the gumbo (pictured)…you’ll be glad you did. Pearl’s YaYa Gumbo gets its mojo from Paul Prudhomme’s double-smoked, spicy-sweet Andouille sausage and chunks of slow-roasted chicken, brought together in a stock with sauteed red onion, red and green bell peppers, and a mix of dried herbs and spices. Of course, the key to any gumbo is the roux, a mix of oil and flour, slow cooked—with a great deal of patience—to a deep brown perfection. A serving of rice and traditional okra also help thicken this authentic Southern stew. (Not to worry, okra haters: the little veg is not slimy if it’s cooked properly.) But is it authentic? True to its Cajun origins? You bet! “We have our signature items, and we don’t touch those recipes,” states General Manager Christine Tate.

From Medieval Europe, Direct to You

Trout Town Tavern & Eatery, 306 Elm St. in Kalkaska, trouttowntavern.com, (231) 258-2701
Beer soup, in this case Cheddar Ale, is thought to have been enjoyed by both peasants and higher-ups as a breakfast soup, sometimes poured over bread. At Trout Town Tavern, cheddar with just the right level of sharpness meets ale’s earthy flavor in this substantial fare. White Chicken Chili, New England Clam Chowder, and Smoked Beef Barley (made from in-house mesquite-smoked brisket, with a sweet and savory dry coffee rub) round out the menu. We say opt for the three-soup sampler, because choosing can be hard.

Swamp Soup (No Relation to Swamp Thing)

Centre Street Café, 1125 Centre St. #3404 in Traverse City, centrestreetcafe.com, (231) 946-5872
Don’t be put off by the name; this vegetable soup is freshly flavored and, with its not-too-thick, not-too-thin consistency, the perfect winter meal. Expect spinach (loads of it!) sauteed with onions and garlic, combined with house-made vegetable stock. Red pear heirloom tomatoes—tender, sweet, and tiny (only about 2 inches), with a minimum of seeds—set this soup apart. Grated Swiss cheese on top imparts a sweet, nutty flavor and is the perfect pairing for this popular dish, a menu favorite for over 20 years.