Brasserie Amie’s French Cruellers

Tastemaker

By Lynda Wheatley | May 8, 2021

It is said that French girls (and guys) don’t get fat — or at least not as fat as Americans — despite the fact (or perhaps because) they typically take le goûter. The tilted-beret version of the Brits’ high tea, le goûter is the French’s afternoon tradition, a languorous and fortifying pause between lunch and the traditionally light, traditionally late French dinner, which usually happens around 8pm.

Le goûter fare is always sweet — think bakery-made cream cakes, a pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants), or fruit-filled crepes — but never just a snack. It is, in fact, considered a meal. And Brasserie Amie makes certain nothing is lost in translation with its French Cruellers ($6). Deep-fried croissant pastries that are in no way petite seem to have rolled around in a bathtub of powdered sugar before dancing under a stream of honey. We ordered some on a whim while waiting for brunch (a Crabe Benedict of soft-shell crab, Canadian bacon, choron; and a Choucroute omelette, filled with house sauerkraut, country ham, and raclette — both outstanding), and nearly fell off our barstools at the first warm, buttery, sweet, crunchy yet pillow-soft bite. We had the good sense to stop, albeit regretfully, after six bites to save room for our main courses. But we need not have regretted a thing.

That afternoon, with nary an American tool of microwave or air fryer in sight, we bit into them again, and sacré bleu! Their refrigerated hours had degraded neither taste nor texture. Seems some of their compatriots — looking at you “French” fries — could learn a thing or two. Find Brasserie Amie, currently open for brunch and dinner Thursday through Monday, at 160 E. Front St., (231) 753-3161, brasserieamie.com