Samosa & Aloo Gobi
By Alex Tank | March 7, 2020
An inviting aroma drifts from an unassuming kiosk in the Grand Traverse Mall food court. Behind the counter, Golam Rabbani and his staff urge passersby to sample a Taste of India. They’ll happily describe the colorful dishes on offer: dal, chana masala, basmati rice, naan, biryani — all the classic staples. “This is the traditional food of the common people,” Rabbani said, but the flavors at Taste of India are uncommonly bold. Originally from Bangladesh, Rabbani and his wife Jina honed their gracious cooking for family and friends years before opening the restaurant this January. Jina is the biryani specialist, offering both a chicken and vegetarian version of the fragrant rice dish. Chefs Sharif and Brent are busy behind the scenes keeping up with orders streaming in from online. On our visit, we chose the Samosa, a flaky crust pocket filled with spiced potato and green peas, served with a tart, sweet tamarind sauce. To accompany, we went for the Aloo Gobi, a cauliflower & potato medley with onion, clove, fennel, turmeric, sautéed in mustard oil. As an entrée, it’s served with basmati rice, naan, and salad for $12. The vibrant yellow cauliflower is beautifully seasoned, gently spicy, and toothsome since it’s cooked fresh throughout the day. Dine beside the food-court carousel or go for takeout.