Taproot’s Toum

Tastemaker

By Lynda Wheatley | March 13, 2021

If you can forgive the fact that our half-Lebonese editor smeared it atop Costco-bought falafel balls (trust us; they’re better than any she’s managed to make herself), we urge you to get yourself some of the tastiest salsat toum in town.

An authentic taste of the Middle East, Taproot whips up its toum, initially, the traditional way: with loads of garlic, plus lemon juice, sunflower oil, and salt. But for a bit of well-balanced body and extra flavor, there's a few unexpected bonuses: cane sugar, mustard powder, white vinegar, pepper, and aquafaba — the water snuggling canned chickpeas.

The result is a bright and tangy, totally creamy toum, with just the right amount of bite for garlic lovers. Typically a condiment paired with shwarma or chicken kabobs, Taproot’s toum is a zesty alternative to your usual pita and humus hors d'oeuvres, and one we found can make the party more worldly yet, with additional sides of Mexican salsa, Hungarian deviled eggs, and Indian Naan. Our editor went full bean, drenching the aforementioned Costco falafel and many, many cucumber slices in it — a move that proved both magical and delicious.

We discovered our tub at Oleson’s (3850 N. Long Lake Rd.) in Traverse City, but you can try a single smear of your own by ordering up Taproot Cider House’s own grilled pita ($11), which features the spread atop Omena Organic’s (masala) chickpeas, local charred carrots, micro cilantro, cucumber, feta, and ancho chili oil. Find Taproot Cider House at 300 E. Front St., in Traverse City. (231) 943-2500, www.taproottc.com