Living History Carferry event in Manistee

May 17, 2009

Living History Steams at
Carferry Event in Manistee

By Vince Hancock 5/18/09

What’s steel and oak, and 360 feet long? Hint: it was steam-powered with engines two stories tall.
These comic book proportions aren’t exaggerated—the ship is the S.S. City of Milwaukee historic carferry. It opens its doors to the public with a free day of programs and living history on Memorial Day weekend, as the museum ship hosts its annual Reunion and Open House on Saturday, May 23 from 10 a.m.-7 p.m. The event is part of Manistee’s “Heroes Weekend,” honoring martime, public safety and military personnel.
Carferry staffers are looking forward to welcoming new and returning visitors. Linda Spencer, general manager of the organization, brims with enthusiasm. “It’s rewarding to show off the ship every year, in better condition than the year before.”
Numerous state and private grants have funded historical displays and restoration work, including the repainting of the massive first level, called the car deck. For 50 years, it was on this deck that car handlers maneuvered fully-loaded boxcars on and off this deck’s four sets of rails. It was a tricky and dangerous task, requiring alertness at all times and repeated up to six times a day.

TALES OF THE LAKES
One former car handler with a special fondness for the S.S. City of Milwaukee is Pat Brandon. As the shipkeeper, it’s his job to tackle the ever-growing list of repair jobs on the ship. His gruff exterior fits the stereotype of the hardened sailor, but mention carferries and he’ll soften a bit—enough to rattle off a string of harrowing experiences.
“One crew member I know talked about trouble on the Arthur K. Atkinson,” he says. “A train car flipped over and bent the ship’s hull. Everything in the engine room, including barrels of oil, went flying across the room.”
During the Reunion and Open House, Brandon will demonstrate the finer points of “throwing gear,” or setting up the heavy clamps, jacks, turnbuckles and chains that kept dozens of railcars tied down. “I’ll be the A.B. (able-bodied) supervisor,” Brandon says with a laugh. “I’m getting too old to lift that stuff.”
Other re-enactors will play the roles of purser (who kept track of payroll and sold tickets to passengers), engineer and wheelsman. Starting at 10 a.m., visitors can stroll through the ship at a leisurely pace and interact with the “crew.”
At noon, Spencer will officially start the day by unveiling a new acquisition—the ship’s bell from sister carferry S.S. Madison. “We’ll put the bell on display, next to the Madison’s original builder’s plate in our Boxcar Museum,” says Spencer. The museum space is a central location for many artifacts, along with maps, historical photos and models. Spencer has also booked three speakers to add story to static display.

PANIC OF 1893
Grant Brown, author of “Ninety Years Crossing Lake Michigan,” will give a talk at 1 p.m. about the Ann Arbor carferry service, which inspired other rail services to establish similar routes. Few had faith in the concept—especially during an unstable economy.
“The founder of the Ann Arbor Railroad went broke just five months after he got the ferries going,” says Brown. “During the Panic of 1893 he and his son lost the railroad and the carferries.”
Eventually, blueprints became realities, the fleet expanded and careers flourished. “Almost all of the early captains left home at the age of 14, but they had intelligence and drive and became successful. Many would start work somewhere on board and would work their way up to become captain.”
At 2 p.m., Tom Rau is slated to present his program about amateur boating mishaps and the need for education. As a 27-year veteran of the Coast Guard, author and columnist, Rau is familiar with the shipwrecks that litter the floor of Lake Michigan. But he’s quick to direct attention to the tally of modern accidents that aren’t chronicled in story and song. “Twenty three people were lost on the Edmund Fitzgerald, but we lost 111 just in the last year,” he says. “I’m calling for mandatory boat education.”
The series of programs concludes with local author Jonathan Hawley, speaking about the Point Betsie Lighthouse and its role in aiding watercraft, both past and present. Marking the southern end of the Manitou Passage, the lighthouse has played dual roles as both a prominent navigational point and a staging ground for lifesavers. Hawley will discuss its 150-year history, notable lightkeepers and current restoration efforts.

BUFFALO EXPRESS
The day concludes with food and music during the late afternoon. A local duo, Buffalo Express, will perform original songs and American classics. Fittingly, guitarist Mike Schmuck picked up his skills on a ship. “I learned how to play on the back end of an aircraft carrier back in 1970. I was the bosun’s mate, and I did everything from cleaning the latrine to loading bombs.”
Linda Spencer loves to see this blend of maritime veterans connect with the public. “We’ve had pursers, cooks, deckhands and shipyard workers travel to Manistee to join us for the event,” says Spencer. Visitors are urged to introduce themselves and strike up conversations. “We’ll all get the chance to talk to the guys that actually did the jobs onboard.”
S.S. City of Milwaukee Reunion & Open House, north side of Manistee (just off U.S. 31), (231) 723-3587. “Heroes Weekend” events continue in Manistee, Saturday through Monday. Contact the Chamber of Commerce at (231) 723-2575 or view schedule at Manisteechamber.com.