New World Caf? Keeps things Cozy in Charlevoix

July 28, 2004

With a tree bearing cookies, walls lined with thought-provoking artwork and the view of a sunrise on Round Lake from the back deck, even the most left-brained customers may find themselves feeling more creative. A few minutes inside and it’s easy to see there is nothing novice about the New World Café.
But the mind soon takes a back seat to the nose as the scents of a rhubarb Danish, tender scones and cheese bagels steaming from the oven, beckon your call. Customers of the New World Café aren’t known for their conversation, because as we all know, it’s not polite to talk with your mouth full.
From fine dining in Ann Arbor to French restaurants in Miami, owner/operator Dave Hayden’s 35 years in the culinary arts have served him well. Hayden took some time out of the peak of his seventh season in Charlevoix to talk a little about his unusual café.
“I started catering in the early ‘80s and I’ve been coming here (Charlevoix) for the last 25 years,”
he says. “We have a family cabin here -- I just fell in love with the area. I even like it in the winter.”
And, after dec-ades in the food business, Hayden decided he wanted his own restaurant.
“I like it because it’s active,” he said. “I think food is an artistic expression, not that it doesn’t get a little crazy, but it keeps life exciting.”
Although sum-mer comes with the need for additional help, (dishwasher, chef and waiter), Hayden spends most of the year working alone or with one other person.
“That’s what’s nice about having a smaller place -- I can handle it with a smaller staff,” he said.
A permanent member of that small staff is Richard R. Simmons, half owner of the New World Café.
Simmons said, “I like going to coffee shops, it keeps me social. I’ve always been around them, I just ended up working at the one I hung out at.”
According to Simmons, the cookie tree, which was built using a large gnarly branch of an old apple tree, was constructed by local craftsman Dave Rasmussen. The limbs of the cookie tree are lined with cases offering dark Belgian chocolate chunk, white Belgian chocolate chunk
with cherries and oatmeal cranberry just to name a few.
By the time you reach the counter you’ve already been tempted by the cookie tree and the pastry case, which holds such decadent desserts as a flourless chocolate torte and a Bishop’s torte consisting of rich English pound cake, crème fresh and cherry reduction. One may find their only recourse in a steaming mug of Hayden’s locally roasted vanilla latte.
According to Hayden, a small staff and cozy dining area aren’t the only advantages to a smaller restaurant. And he keeps things exciting with an ever evolving menu based on two main approaches.
“Everything is made fresh from scratch and I’m small enough that I can change my menu to follow the seasonal produce,” he said. “ I try and do healthier food with emphasis on fresh vegetables -- we don’t have any French fries on the menu.”
Besides using fresh produce and seasonally adapting the menu, Hayden feels it is just as important to implement as many local products as possible.
John Cross supplies the whitefish for New World’s Manhattan style chowder and local blueberries complete his signature chicken salad, a dish named a great food find of northern Michigan by Traverse magazine.
Hayden said, “I like simple foods well
prepared and I love regional cuisine.”
And his customers seem to think so too. He added, “I had a group of six who came back specifically to have my sweet potato and black bean burrito because they liked it so well last year.”
According to Hayden, it is compliments like that which keep him going.
While enjoying your black bean and sweet potato burrito at the café, you can view the works of local artist Helga Strey, a German born artist utilizing every medium from ink to watercolor with many styles including still life and cubism.
“It’s like having a gallery of several different artists with her work,” Hayden said.
In the spirit of artistic expression, Hayden commissioned local singer/musician Jerry Ward to perform 3-7 p.m., Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays throughout the summer.
The New World Café is open 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. and is located at 208 Bridge St. in Charlevoix.