Lulu‘s Adds a Dash of Bistro Elegance to Bellaire

Feb. 27, 2002

As 2001 came to a close last December, a bistro opened in Bellaire. Lulu‘s
is the creative endeavor of Mike Peterson, of Alden‘s former foodie haunt,
Spencer Creek.
For nearly the past two years, Peterson has worked to ready the downtown
eatery. Having grown up in Traverse City and having spent the last ten years
in Alden, Peterson “always had a feeling about Bellaire.“ With something
akin to the rhythm of a poet he explains, “It‘s centrally located, it‘s the
county seat for Antrim, it‘s close to Torch, not that far from Petoskey.“
The name was one of many batted around, but it kept popping up and
eventually sort of stuck, says Peterson. His great-grandmother was nicknamed
Lulu (short for Louise). During the naming phase he happened to see a movie,
Lulu on the Bridge. The building was on Bridge Street. And, his mother liked
it.
Said building was originally 20‘x80‘ with two stories. Peterson had the
building raised four feet off the ground, laid a new foundation, added a
basement, and then set it down and continued building -- thanks to
additional space from the neighboring lot -- making the finished structure
45‘ x 80‘. He gutted and renovated the inside, from (maple) floor to (tin,
12-foot) ceiling.
Earthy paint tones and faux finishes set off raw steel, concrete and the
zebrawood bar. Outside, the patio is surrounded by a wrought-iron fence.
“The idea was to go for that city-style feel you‘d find in New York or
Chicago. I spend so much time in the kitchen that when I do go out, I really
look for places with atmosphere. That‘s part of the puzzle -- good food,
good service and atmosphere.“
Peterson also spent time in Paris, so he knows a bistro when he builds one.
“We went after big plates, big bowls and big portions -- but not huge,“ he
adds. “And I do a lot of braising and smoking.“ To wit: braised, smoked beef
brisket with caramelized onions and whole grain mustard sauce with roasted
Yukon gold potatoes or braised short ribs with parmesan polenta and roasted
root vegetables.
Dinner specials, particularly seafood, have been received “fantastically.“
No surprise when they‘re dishes such as seared sea scallops and white
truffle oil risotto with mushroom; rack of lamb with basil pine nut crust
and rosemary scented broth; tuna seared with wasabi vinaigrette served with
pickled ginger and tamari wild rice; or fresh local trout.
Peterson, who trained at the Culinary Institute of America, designed the
menu in three categories: small plates and salads; pastas, bruschetta and
pizza; and entrees (sandwiches at lunch). “What I really like about that is
you can come in for a glass of wine and an appetizer, pizza and beer, or you
can have a fine four-course meal. It‘s a casual, comfortable place -- not
stodgy at all. There are no expectations of anyone.“
Lulu‘s has a full bar, and is non-smoking. Hours are Tuesdays through
Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 2:30 for lunch. Dinner is served from 5 until 9
p.m.
Beginning on February 10, Lulu‘s will host a Sunday fondue night. For one
price, guests will get a cheese fondue with bread, sausage, pickles and
other assorted dipping goodies. For dessert, there‘s chocolate fondue. ‘Nuf
said?