Tastemakers: Trattoria Stella Carpaccio of Beef - Stellar Ale

July 27, 2005

TRATTORIA STELLA CARPACCIO OF BEEF
Through the 1970s Steak Tartare was a popular dish, finding its way onto most upscale restaurant menus. Concerns over consuming raw beef in the 1980s put a kibosh on Steak Tartare. Folklore has it that the Attila the Hun and his warriors started the raw beef craze when they put chunks of raw meat under their saddlebags ,and after a day’s battle the now-tenderized beef, was seasoned and consumed raw. Then came the Mongolian tribe, the Tartars, who added greens and raw bird eggs to raw beef and the popular recipe was developed and handed down from generation to generation.  
Despite risks of food-borne illness, raw beef dishes are making a comeback. Carpaccio of Beef  (thin slices of raw beef served cold and named after the famous Italian High Renaissance painter Vittore Carpaccio,1450 - 1525) has long been a favorite among Italians. 
Chef Myles Anton of Trattoria Stella shows why. The popular dish has become a regular item on the Stella menu. The thin slices of raw tenderloin are chilled and served with red onions, capers, micro chervil, and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano olive oil resulting in a true culinary delicacy. (No wonder Attila and his warriors were so successful.)
Pair with the new Stellar Ale (see Bottoms Up) or Saumur Rouge (100% Cabernet Franc) from the Loire Valley in France. Be sure to enjoy with Stella’s fresh bread, especially the olive loaf if it is available. As for health concerns, the kitchen staff is certified in safe food handling procedures and only the best quality of beef is used. Bottom line is quality cuts of beef should be served as rare as possible, otherwise the best of the flavors go up in smoke. For proof just taste Stella’s Carpaccio of Beef.

BOTTOMSup
STELLAR ALE
Brewer Joe Short is quickly rising among the ranks of innovative brewers, not just in Michigan, but across the country.  Jon Ingham, bar & beverage manager for Trattoria Stella, believes that Short is among the nations best brewers (Ingham is quite the expert himself when it comes to malted beverages and will give a class at the upcoming Epicurean Classic on single malt Scotch).  He asked Short to develop a signature ale for Stella. The two discussed their visions and taste profiles for the beer; born out of the discussion was Stellar Ale. 
What was important to Ingham was for the beer to be unique yet restaurant and food-friendly. Short delivered. Stellar Ale falls into a new brew category known as Strong Pale Ale (between Pale Ale and IPA styles). Short is known for his “hoppy” ales at his Short’s Brewery in Bellaire where his ales’ alcohol content is in the 6.5% range and the IBU’s (International Bitterness Units is the system of indicating the hop bitterness) are in the 90+ range. 
Knowing Stella’s reputation for cuisine, Short developed Stellar Ale to enhance the fare, not overpower it. Keeping the IBUs in the high 60s and the alcohol at 5.5%, Short’s Stellar Ale will be a brew lover’s beer, and at the same time pair with most any dish presented on the daily menu. 
The grapefruit/citrus flavors in the finish make this an excellent pairing with seafood and pasta.  Try with the Atlantic Scallops or Ahi Tuna. Stellar Ale may also be enjoyed alone or with a cheese plate but is best with grilled meats or Carpaccio of Beef (see Tastemakers).  Because the hops are not over powering. they enhance the seasonings and flavors in beef dishes. For now Stellar Ale will be served only at Stella’s, but eventually Short will offer it at his brewery as a dual promotion between two of Northern Michigan’s hottest new out-on-the-town destinations. Early reviews from customers have been positive and those in the know believe it is an award winner.  So does Short who is entering Stellar Ale in the World Beer Championships. Expect to see a Gold Medal hanging from the tap handle in the near future. -- Rick Coates