Tastemakers: Stafford Smith - John C. Maier

March 8, 2006

Stafford Smith is a legend in culinary and hospitality circles around the Midwest. He helped to put the capital S into service. As proprietor of four popular establishments, The Pier in Harbor Springs, The Bayview Inn and Perry Hotel in Petoskey and the Weathervane in Charlevoix, Smith has built his own culinary and lodging dynasty and helped to pre-serve some important cultural and historical landmarks in the area along the way. Each location is known for its hospitality and culinary excellence.
A true test of whether a restaurant has a high standard of culinary and service excellence is by dropping in minutes before they stop serving dinner. I did that recently at Stafford’s The Weathervane, arriving five minutes before the kitchen closed and they never missed a beat. The placed was packed (a norm for Stafford properties) and my server paid attention to detail from start to finish. A pet peeve of mine is that when you don’t order alcohol, the attitude of a server seems to sour at some places. Not at Stafford’s – the server was unfazed, and when I presented him with a coupon to further reduce my tab, he went to great lengths to show that he had discounted my bill.
The atmosphere is delightful at the Weathervane year-round (summer offers stunning views along the Pine River Channel, which connects Lake Michigan
and Round Lake), especially with the massive stone fireplace made of glacial
boulders shaped like Michigan’s lower peninsula, replicating a map of the state, including its highways.
I was quite impressed with the presentation of my Oak Planked Whitefish, considering the chef had been swamped and it was nearing his time to go home. It was absolutely exquisite and is a must try for anyone who enjoys whitefish. The oakiness from the plank permeates the fish creating a subtle woodsy sensation that is balanced out nicely with the Remoulade Sauce and half a lemon. Equally impressive were the Duchesse Potatoes and Parmesan Tomato Crown “crusted” to perfection along with the whitefish. A nice oaked Chardonnay is the perfect wine pairing for this meal. The Weathervane is a winner on all three counts: service, atmosphere and quality. To learn more and to see menus of all Stafford’s properties visit
www.staffords.com



Rogue Brewmaster John C. Maier is getting ready to celebrate his 20th anniversary as a brewer. For 11 years Maier was a senior electronics technician for Hughes Aircraft, working on the F-14 Tomcat Radar System. Tiring of Defense Department work Maier quit and headed to the infamous Siebel Institute of Technology in Chicago where he took the three months brewers curriculum. After three years with an Alaskan brewery Maier made his way to Oregon and began brewing for the newly opened Rogue Brewery.
After brewing 30 million pints Maier has reached legend status in the craft brew industry, especially as an innovator and experimenter. Maier, like many brewmasters, started as a homebrewer and likes to remain true to his roots. A good example is Rogue’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar. This brew was inspired by one of Maier’s homebrew friends and is “dedicated to the homebrewer in each of us.”
Hazelnut Nectar is a nutty twist to the traditional European Brown Ale style. Reddish-brown in color this brew is creamy and nutty with a smooth, sweet, malty finish. The focus is on the hazelnut aroma that creates a roasted coffee bouquet that masks the hops. The hops are there -- you just have to reach deep with your palate to find them.
Pair at dessert with a turtle sundae or enjoy before dinner with soft pungent cheeses. At dinner try with wild game dishes such as venison and duck. Hazelnut Brown Nectar is available in a 22-ounce bottle, a special commemorative 3-litre bottle with ceramic swing-top, and on draft, so ask for it at your favorite eatery or shop that specializes in craft brews.