Tastemakers: Boathouse New Zealand Lamb Shank/ Chateau Grand Traverse

April 18, 2007

When touring the wineries of the Old Mission Peninsula, be sure to include a visit to the Boathouse Restaurant located at Bowers Harbor along West Grand Traverse Bay. The restaurant built its reputation around the talents of Chef Jim Morse. Morse is moving on, sort of; he is now executive chef of the restaurant’s parent corporation and will oversee the opening of their new Assaggio wine bar, expected in the late fall of 2007 in downtown Traverse City.
Taking over for Morse is Chef Randy Chamberlain of Windows fame. Chamberlain spent several years working for Phil Murray, most recently at Windows Le Bear in Glen Arbor. Look for Chamberlain to add his culinary flair to the Boathouse menu with prices remaining the same.
A recent stop found both Morse and Chamberlain in the kitchen and Ashley and Jackie at the front of the house for what was a fabulous culinary experience. It started with fresh bread and olive oil and a bowl of tomato bisque that was prepared to perfection. Morse has always been a master of the mushroom dish, and the Wild Mushroom Bruschetta on grilled foccacia, topped with crumbled goat cheese and white truffle oil went beyond my palate’s expectations. The appetizer paired perfectly with the Left Foot Charlie Riesling. The Boathouse wine list features several offerings from the Old Mission Peninsula. The highlight of the evening was the New Zealand Lamb Shank. Braised with orange zest and several spices, no knife was necessary as the meat fell off the bone. The presentation also included saffron risotto, an assortment of baby-root vegetables and a rosemary-mustard demi glace.
The Boathouse is quaint and quiet in the winter and spring months and definitely worth a visit. Entertaining visitors this summer? Be sure to impress them by dining here for dinner or their Sunday Brunch. Check out their menu at www.boathouseonwestbay.com or call (231) 223-4030 for reservations.


Chateau Grand Traverse
2005 “Whole Cluster”

Continuing our celebration of Michigan Wine Month, we travel to the Old Mission Peninsula appellation and take a look at the Peninsula’s first winery, Chateau Grand Traverse. Established in 1974 by Ed O’Keefe Sr., the day-to-day operations now are in the hands of his sons Ed and Sean, though the Senior O’Keefe the remains CEO and an intrical part of the operation. Chateau Grand Traverse has built is reputation around Riesling, though their wine list is loaded with several offerings from Chardonnay to Pinot Noir.
While their wines are found throughout the state, a visit to their tasting room is worth it. They have stunning views of the Old Mission Peninsula and West Grand Traverse Bay and are part of the Wineries of the Old Mission Peninsula (WOMP). All six wineries on the Peninsula make for a grand afternoon of wine tasting, and the Peninsula boasts some great restaurants (see Tastemakers). New wineries are also on the way with Black Star Farms and Two Lads opening this summer.
The popularity of the wine region coupled with world class production and major medals at international wine competitions have led to many wines selling out. Chateau Grand Traverse has several of their wines in that category, including the 2005 “Whole Cluster” Riesling that, while sold out at the tasting room, might still be found at a wine shop.
Rieslings are wonderful food wines and are made with varying degrees of sweetness; so for those who prefer dryer wines, there are dry Rieslings. While Bernie Rink on the Leelanau Peninsula was the first to plant grapes in the region, it was Ed O’Keefe who first planted French vinifera vines in the region, paving the way for the success of the Northern Michigan wine region. To that, we toast them. To learn more about Chateau Grand Traverse and the other wineries of the Old Mission visit www.wineriesofoldmission.com.