Tastemakers: Cherries D‘Vine/Spirit of Cherry

July 4, 2007

There are certain longstanding food traditions at the National Cherry Festival. First, the elephant ears and Gibby’s Fries are must-eats. But for those looking for other tastebud temptations, then look past the carnival munchies and head to the Open Space, where several local eateries offer affordable fare all week long.
Then there are several events where cherry cuisine is the focus. One event introduced last year blends the best of local wines with gourmet food offerings from the Great Lakes Culinary Institute. Cherries D’Vine attracted 1,000 foodies in 2006 as students from the Culinary Institute created several cherry-infused dishes.
This year, organizers plan to kick things up a notch with more creative cherry creations from the Culinary Institute students. Highlights include a local organic- raised lamb, sliced thin and marinated in maple brandy from Black Star Farms and served with a roasted red pepper cherry sauce, bruschetta and grilled vegetables. Look for cherry pulled pork, cherry salmon and crab cakes with a mango cherry salsa. For those with a sweet tooth, there will be a sweets table, where the cherry ganache brownies are a must try.
A dozen wineries from the region will bring high-end wine offerings that are often not found at the typical wine festival. A focus at Cherries D’Vine is the art of pairing wine with food and breaking down that longstanding notion that some foods are red or white wine exclusive. A special tasting card will be prepared that will make both red and white wine pairing suggestions for each food offering.
Tickets for this event are limited and are selling quickly. Cherries D’Vine is Sunday, July 8 from 3:30 to 7:30 at the Great Lakes Culinary Institute overlooking West Grand Traverse Bay. For additional details, check out cherryfestival.org or call to order tickets 231-947-4230.

When alcohol beverage executive Don Coe began visioning his own winery 15 years ago, he wanted to produce wines and brandies that celebrated Northern Michigan’s rich fruit growing heritage. He has accomplished that at Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay. Under the direction of winemaker Lee Lutes, Black Star Farms has reached international acclaim for their wines and brandies. At Black Star Farms they have been hauling in the hardware at competitions and plenty of praise from some of the world’s top wine critics. In their line of eau de vies (French for “water of life”) or fruit brandies, they have turned many heads in the tasting room with their Spirit of Pear that has a full size pear in the bottle (it is worth a drive to the tasting room to hear Coe tell the story of how the pear in the bottle is accomplished).
But this is cherry season and we are the cherry capital, so Black Star Farms Spirit of Cherry is getting top bill in their line of brandies. In Europe, fruit brandy is a digestif and is served at the end of the meal as a palate cleanser and aids in digestion. Spirit of Cherry blends the flavors of eight black sweet cherries, along with two tarts, including the very flavorful Balaton.
Lutes has accomplished an impressive balance of a subtle cherry flavors and alcohol with neither dominating the other. Each 375 ml bottle is 80 proof and uses between 15 and 20 pounds of cherries to perfect. Local chefs and home gourmets should use Spirit of Cherry in preparing sauces, flambéing or sautéing. 
A European favorite and a Black Star Farms specialty is their Leelanau Cheese fondue with the Spirit of Cherry as the secret. Spirit of Cherry and other Black Star Farms fruit brandies are best enjoyed in a tulip-styled spirits glass, served at room temperature or slightly chilled. And remember, at 80 proof, keep your pours around 1.5 ounces.