Tastemakers: Lutfisk - Bush De Noel

Dec. 13, 2006

Lutfisk w/ Cranberry Sauce
I miss both of my grandmothers, especially this time of the year. They have always been my inspiration in the kitchen. My Grandmother Varg gave me her favorite cookbook when I headed off for college; she told me if I learned how to cook I would never go hungry. My Grandmother Coates taught me the art of experimenting and cooking without recipes. Both labored in the kitchen for family meals, and Sundays and holidays were always something I looked forward to. With both living a couple of miles from my childhood home, my family dined often with my grandparents. My Grandmother and Grandfather Varg were Swedish so we spent Christmas Eve with them. I looked forward to everything but the Lutfisk.
There is no middle ground with Lutfisk (Lutefisk in Norway); you either love it or you hate it.
Now, Lutfisk is not a type of fish, but rather, a process of preparing cod, ling, pollock or haddock using a lye and water solution over a period of several days. Treated for preservation purposes, Lutfisk emits challenging odors for most, but it is tradition, or is it?  My Grandmother served it every Christmas Eve, but actually only about two percent of Scandinavian households serve it then (most serve a rib roast). The tradition seems to be something of a North American thing (particularly Midwestern), versus one celebrated back in Scandinavia. I am not sure that anyone in my family really liked it; we tolerated it and my Grandfather paired his with a Manhattan (for which I was too young). My Grandmother prepared Lutfisk each Christmas Eve as a symbol -- a reminder of the tough times -- the challenges and sacrifices of our ancestors that led to a better life for us. It is why my kids will experience their first lutfisk Christmas Eve this year. They will get the first class lutfisk treatment. I on the other hand will take from my Grandfather’s lesson book; lutfisk is best paired with a Manhattan. For lutfisk recipes, visit Olsen Fish Company at www.olsenfish.com. They also have a great Lutfisk Taco recipe in case you have leftovers.   

Bush De Noël (Scaldis Noël)
 

I have written about it before; the economics of the alcohol industry have created conglomerates that are drinking up the competition. Rumor has it that a popular Michigan brewery has recently sold to one of the big boys. Opinions differ as to the quality of product of the macro-brewer versus the microbrewer and the large wine houses versus the boutique vineyard. All have their place and it is best to let one’s palate be the final critic.
That said, there seems to be a romantic notion attached to the small/family brewery or winery. The connoisseur loves to seek these places and products out. A great example is the Dubuisson Brewery—located in French-speaking region of Belgium. The ninth generation of brewers in the Dubuisson family have started the brewing process (including creating two microbreweries), but have avoided the temptation of selling out to a larger operation. Producers of the strongest beers made in Belgium (they are called Bush over there but were renamed Scaldis -- land of the groves -- for U.S. distribution so that there is no confusion with the products from Anheuser-Busch), brewmaster Hugues Dubuisson created their popular Christmas beer 15 years ago.
Brewed in limited quantities and sold in small 250 ml bottles for individual enjoyment, or magnum size bottles for celebration with friends, Scaldis Noël is a wonderful winter warmer at 12% alcohol (most beers are around 5%). The red fruit notes in the start, along with the coffee in the finish, make this holiday brew perfect for all celebratory settings. For those who have an appreciation for an after-dinner brandy or cognac, give this a try and pair with a chocolate dessert, or enjoy prior to dinner with cheeses. Serve in a cognac/brandy snifter for full aroma enjoyment or a nice big red wine glass at dinner. During dinner pair with red meats such as a holiday roast or venison, or with a roasted breast of duck. www.br-dubuisson.com.