Tastemakers: Gravlax - Redstone Meadery Black Raspberry Nectar

Dec. 20, 2006

Gravlax (Lox)
Okay, last week’s Tastemakers column on Lutfisk evoked several different responses; while some got a chuckle out of it, others sent notes of their suffering through many a lutfisk dinners. while still others scolded me for suggesting such a “nasty” dish be served for Christmas Eve dinner. Another e-mail came in from someone who signed it simply “Swede” and suggested that I write about a dish that those of Scandinavian descent are truly proud of. Swede wrote he would never show up to a holiday party with Lutfisk, but often brings his “famous” Gravlax.
Okay, he is right: when given a choice between Lutfisk or Gravlax, I am going with the latter myself. Gravlax (Gravad Lax, Lox) is a traditional method of preparing salmon by coating spices and then covering and weighing down to draw out the salmon flavor. It’s also prepared in Germany, Nova Scotia and Scotland.
There are a lot of recipes, but here are some secrets. First, traditional Swedish Gravlax is made with salt, sugar and dill only (do not get fooled into using anything else, such as other seasonings or vodka, as ultimately these will destroy the wonderful raw flesh flavors of the salmon). Use whole bunches of dill, as chopped dill is hard to remove after the process is complete. Wrap the fish in parchment paper and then Saran Wrap, place in a dish and put a weight on the top. The key is to make it the day before you plan to serve, as Gravlax is best savored fresh (12 to 24 hours after making).
Serve with bagels and cream cheese or as is, maybe with a dill mustard sauce. Enjoy with chilled vodka, white wines, such as one of our locally produced Pinot Grigios or Gewürztraminers.
So there you go, you haters of the Lutfisk; now you have an alternative and I think we can all celebrate this one. I have heard from reliable sources that Punzel Scandinavian, south of Interlochen, serves wonderful Gravlax for lunch. Advance reservations are required, as Punzel needs a day to prepare it. www.punzelscandinavian.com (231)263-7427.



Redstone Meadery Black Raspberry Nectar
On my 18th birthday I filled out my Selective Service card, registering me for the draft in the event one was ever needed in the Armed Forces. I wasn’t angry over that; what angered me was that I was considered adult enough to carry a gun and fight for my country, but I was not old enough to enjoy an adult beverage of my choice. Sharing my frustration with a neighbor, he pointed out a loophole in the law. While the drinking age was 21, another law allowed anyone 18 and over the right to make his or her own beer for personal consumption.
So, 25 years ago, I brewed my first batch of beer. I continued that passion of homebrewing when I came to Traverse City in 1986. As I met with others who shared that passion, I came across beekeeper Kurt Jones down in Honor (Sleeping Bear Honey) who introduced me to the delights of mead making. Through a snowstorm one winter’s night in 1991, I ventured to his honey farm, and with a group of his friends brewed my first batch of mead. I have been a fan ever since.
Researchers have concluded that mead (fermented honey) was the first alcoholic beverage known to man, and has been called “The Nectar of the Gods.”
Commercial mead making is on the rise. Longview Winery on the Leelanau Peninsula became the first in the region with a mead selection, and their Cherry Mead is winning new fans. In a recent search to see what is new to our marketplace I visited Scott at Scovies in Charlevoix and he suggested that I give Redstone Black Raspberry Nectar a try. Located in Boulder, Colorado, Redstone is among the largest mead producers in the country. The Black Raspberry Nectar is a melomel (a mead made using fruit other than grapes or apples) and is light bodied, slightly carbonated and a refreshing beverage, especially when one wants something besides a beer or a wine. Serve chilled and pour in a wide-mouth goblet, and note the color pairs perfectly with the season. Enjoy with holiday appetizers or fruit tartlets, salmon lox and goat cheese. After dinner, serve with chocolate desserts. Available locally. For additional information, see www.redstonemeadery.com.