Tastemakers: Edible Grand Traverse/Bry‘s Estate 2006 Cabernet Franc

April 6, 2008

edible Grande Traverse

As the Northern Michigan food and drink community continues to cultivate itself, the sprouting of a foodie-focused publication was inevitable. Enter “edible Grande Traverse,” the region’s first periodical, “Celebrating the Foods of Northwest Lower Michigan, Season by Season.” Founded by publisher Charlie Wunsch and editor Barb Tholin, “edible Grande Traverse” is a member of Edible Communities (these edible magazines are popping up all over North America) and will begin as a quarterly corresponding with each season.
The debut issue has a focus on spring foraging with some great articles on morels and mushrooms. Another article highlights the philosophy of Chef Ted Cizma at the Grand Traverse Casinos and Resort and his approach of sourcing local foods.
“edible Grande Traverse” (if you want to know why the put an “e” in Grand, pick up a copy for the explanation) is a welcome addition to the ever expanding food and drink garden here in Northern Michigan. There is much renewed interest and enthusiasm throughout our region for locally produced foods and drink. I like how “edible” founders describe this phenomenon as not something new, since locally-produced foods have always been here, but are simply being rediscovered. I look forward to future issues. The magazine is available throughout Northern Michigan with the debut issue on newsstands and at places where foodies hang out. “edible” is also immersing itself into the foodie community by getting behind the new Chef’s Challenge at Shanty Creek on April 25- 27, where Wunsch and Tholin will be on hand. Additional details may be found at ediblegrandtraverse.com



Brys Estate 2006
Cabernet Franc

April is Michigan Wine Month (designated by Governor Granholm) and there are celebrations taking place all over the state. According to the press release from the Department of Agriculture, the Northern Michigan celebration will take place at the Chef’s Challenge on April 25-27 at Shanty Creek, an event that will celebrate Michigan’s diverse agricultural heritage as some of the state’s top chefs, winemakers and brewmasters come together for competition and classes.
One of those wineries will be Brys Estate from the Old Mission Peninsula, and rightfully so. Brys is home to one of the youthful rising star winemakers in Coenraad Stassen. Originally from South Africa (one of the top new world wine regions), Stassen is making phenomenal wines that embrace the terroir of the peninsula.
Now, wines from Northern Michigan have come into their own, garnering the
respect they deserve. At least white wines have -- but what about reds? I constantly hear from wine drinkers: sure the whites are great, but I can’t find a good red made in Michigan. A few years back an article in a wine magazine boasted about the great whites of this state but said, “if you are looking for a good red, you better drive 3,000 miles west.”
That is changing because winemakers here are committed to growing quality
red grapes and making great red wines. I have tasted some great Pinot Noir’s from the region as of late, as well as my new favorite, Cabernet Franc’s.
Stassen believes that Cabernet Franc is going to be the next hot grape that wine enthusiasts are going to embrace. Now, Cabernet Franc has taken a backseat to Cabernet Sauvignon, but Stassen and other winemakers believe that will change. On Chef’s Challenge weekend, Bry’s will release their 2006 Brys Estate Cabernet Franc. Despite its youth (one of the advantages of Cab Franc), the wine is already showing maturity and is rich and complex with dark berry flavors and hints of dark chocolate and soft spice finish. This wine will end any debate on Northern Michigan’s ability to produce a world-class red. Brysestate.com.