Tastemakers: Amical cookbook series Secrets of the Red Lantern/ Michigan Cabernet Franc

Jan. 4, 2009

Amical Cookbook Series
“Secrets of the Red Lantern”

I have speculated in previous writings that while cookbooks are great sellers, they are probably the least read after their purchase. I have more than 200 in my collection and at least 50 of them I have never used to prepare a recipe. Recently, my daughter and I started cookbook Sundays where we take one of my cookbooks and create the evening meal from it. I would like to take credit for it, but I stole the idea from Dave Denison at Amical in Traverse City.
Denison has been offering a cookbook series for years at Amical. It starts in November and continues through the first week of May. Along with his culinary team, he creates a menu from a featured cookbook. At Amical the menu is featured for a whole week. I love this concept because it gives you a “try before you buy” opportunity with the cookbook.
This week, Amical is featuring “Secrets of the Red Lantern,” written and compiled by Pauline and Luke Nguyen (brother and sister) and Pauline’s husband Mark Jensen. The three own and operate the Red Lantern, a modern Vietnamese restaurant located in Sydney, Australia. The book took home the award for best new cookbook in Australia last year, and in 2008, The Red Lantern won the honor for best ethnic restaurant on the continent.
After trying out the menu at Amical this week I would recommend this book because it is more than a cookbook -- it is also a great read. It is the story of one family’s struggle to escape Vietnam and how through food they were able to overcome their homesickness and enjoy economic success in a foreign land.
To learn more about the Amical Cookbook Series, go to amical.com (menus are online) or call them 231.941.8888.

Michigan Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Sauvignon is among the most famous red wine grapes in the world. I am partial to big, bold California Cabs such as those from Sequoia Grove, Caymus, Stag’s Leap and Rockledge (The Rocks). Those wines have all made their way to my dinner table from time to time, but most are $50 a bottle or more so they are more special occasion wines versus everyday ones.
In recent years I have become partial to Cabernet Franc, a lesser known varietal that is used in Bordeaux, typically as a blending grape with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and other lesser known grapes creating Bordeaux styles, sometimes referred to as Meritage.
Several Michigan wineries have been growing Cabernet Franc (the father of Cabernet Sauvignon, the mother is Sauvignon Blanc) and creating blends typically with Merlot. One of my favorites is from Black Star Farms Leorie Vineyard. I recently enjoyed a bottle of their 2000 vintage with some wine snob friends who were shocked to learn that the wine was from Michigan. I also pulled a bottle recently from my cellar of 99 Cabernet Franc from Ciccone Vineyards, the cellaring of this wine paid great dividends as it had mellowed and was a perfect pairing with the leg of lamb I had prepared.
The secret to enjoying red wine from Michigan is often in the cellaring process but of equal importance is to understand the characteristics of the wine in the bottle and appreciate from there. Michigan does not make California reds; if that is what you are looking for, go for it.
Typically big bold reds mask flavorful dishes, so I pick and choose my big California Cab moments (usually with steak). Michigan reds including Cabernet Franc are more versatile in their ability to pair with a range of foods. They are lighter in body typically and Cab Franc from Michigan is very herbaceous and works well with seasoned meats and pasta dishes. Cabernet Francs from Michigan range from $14 to $26 a bottle and there are several great ones. Go to michiganwines.com to locate wineries who produce Cabernet Franc or seek them out at your favorite wine shop or restaurant.