Tastemakers: Organic wines/Trattoria Stella Father‘s Day Stellar Picnic

June 14, 2009

Organic Wines
6/15/09
During a recent visit to By the Light of Day Organics on the Leelanau Peninsula I struck up a conversation with proprietor Angela Macke about consumer confusion over “organic” labeling. She said it is equally “frustrating for the organic farmer who goes to great lengths to become certified organic.”
Macke, who has built a reputation across the country for her collection of certified organic teas made with ingredients she grows on her Leelanau Peninsula organic farm, says the key for the consumer is to “look beyond the certified claim and look on the label and see who actually certified it.”
Organic wines are growing in popularity and are popping up on store shelves all over, but are they really organic? At its root, farming is organic in nature, but the addition of pesticides, herbicides and several chemicals that are difficult to pronounce (and spell) took the “organic” right out of agriculture.
Now, more than ever, the consumer is seeking out organically-grown and raised items, including wine. In 1990, Congress passed the National Organic Foods Act to protect consumers, retailers and growers by essentially insuring that what is labeled as organic is actually organic.
Because wine is alcohol it also regulated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB, once part of the Department of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms ATF) and they created separate rules on “organic” appearing on wine labels. In recent years the USDA and their National Organics Standards Board along with TTB have reached an agreement and wineries are allowed to classify organic wines four ways: 100 percent Organic, Organic, Made With Organic Ingredients, and Some Organic Ingredients. So consumers will know what they are buying by reviewing the label.
A big question that comes up is the “sulfites” in wine. This is a complex chemistry issue for another column. But a general rule of thumb is that all wines typically have some sulfites as they are a natural result of the fermenting process. Organic wines do not add sulfites, and in the U.S., wines can contain up to 350 parts per million of sulfites. Organic winemaking standards, as adopted by the USDA, limit the use of sulfites to 100ppm in all finished products. However, most organic wines contain less than 40ppm of sulfites.
Locally, winemakers are starting to embrace organic practices, in future columns we will explore some of these wines. In the meantime, if you are seeking out organic wines and wines with less sulfites visit Oryana in Traverse City or the Grain Train in Petoskey. both have extensive offerings. --Rick Coates


Tratoria Stella Father’s Day Stellar Picnic
Paul and Amanda Danielson of Tratoria Stella are celebrating their fifth anniversary with their annual “Stellar Picnic” on Father’s Day. The Danielsons have a lot to celebrate as about 50 percent of restaurants do not make it five years. Throw in this economy and fine dining restaurants find themselves struggling. But the Danielson’s have put together a recipe that has worked for them and their guests.
At the root of their success is their vision: “Find the best sources for food, seek out the finest wines in the world and put quality ahead of the bottom line.”
Paul Danielson reflects: “Nearly five years ago, we opened up fueled by vigor, positive attitude and a whole lot of hope. Since then, we have successfully surrounded ourselves with a staff that understands our goal and wants to be a part of it. We have found that much of the best food we can find is grown within 20 miles of our kitchen door. We happily learned that while we can put together a wine list to compare with the best in the country, much of ours comes from our own region.”
This philosophy is a major commitment and very time-consuming. The simple way is for a restaurant to work with a couple of large food distributors, have a truck show up at their back door twice a week, and call it good. Chef Myles Anton has developed a relationship with 45 farmers in the area, many of which have increased their plantings as a result of their relationship with Stella. By working with the local farmer, Stella is insuring that their guests’ experience will be a fresh one.
Equally impressive is their commitment to wines made in Northern Michigan. Amanda Danielson has compiled a collection of wines from around the world that has earned the Stella wine list the “Wine Spectator Award of Excellence” for five straight years.
What is amazing is their willingness to offer 25 local wines by the glass and Danielson credits that to the passion and commitment to quality that local winemakers have embraced. “We are very proud to offer the most comprehensive local wine list in the state of Michigan. We extend our sincerest appreciation to the winemakers for producing these truly world-class wines.”
The “Stellar Picnic” held on Father’s Day, June 21 from 12-4 p.m. on the Great Lawn of Building 50 will celebrate their success. All the food offered will be from local farms. Pork, buffalo, potatoes, strawberries, cream, and more will be served. There will be music and children’s games to make this a family event for Father’s Day. Tickets can be purchased through Stella and are $10/person, $25/family. In keeping with their commitment to the area, proceeds will benefit the Michigan Land Use Institute. Those interested in enjoying local wines may meander into the restaurant for a glass or a pint of Stellar Ale brewed by Shorts Brewing Company from Bellaire. For additional details: stellatc.com or call them at 231-929-8989. --Rick Coates