Keeping the Taste Alive

Favorite recipes from some of the region's top chefs.

By Lynda Wheatley | May 9, 2020

They don’t call northern Michigan the foodie capital for nothin’. Restaurant seats might remain turned over atop their respective tables for a little longer, but much like our native wildflowers, some of the region’s restaurants are emerging from the freeze — some newly open for takeout options, others with gift card and online bonuses that promise brighter days, better meals, and a whiff of wonderful stuff coming again within our reach.

While you anxiously await the industry’s full re-opening, satiate your longing for the unparalleled flavors of your favorite Up North eatery with some (er … formerly) secret recipes shared by their generous chefs. Warning: We can’t promise any recipe you tackle will taste as good as it does from the chef’s own hand, but hey, emergency times call for emergency measures. Give it a whirl and get back for the real thing as soon as you can. These days, our world-famous restaurant industry is feeling as hungry as you.
 
Jolly Pumpkin's Bulgogi Braised Short Rib with Natural Jus & Asian Slaw
Courtesy of Chef Adam Raupp, Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant & Brewery, Old Mission Peninsula
 
Chef Adam used to craft this sandwich for Jolly Pumpkin’s back-of-the-house guys, and it became such a repeat request, he decided to put it on the menu — to rave reviews from regulars. “This dish is a fan favorite at Jolly Pumpkin as well as one of my own,” he told Northern Express. “The best part is the impressive results with just a bit of preparation. Braising is a slow and low-temperature cooking method that transforms tough cuts of meat into tender delicious bits with Jus to smother.”
 
SHORT RIB AND JUS INGREDIENTS
Beef:
Four 12-ounce cuts boneless beef short rib
1 tablespoon cooking oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
 
Marinade:
1 cup pineapple juice
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 juiced lime
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
 
Braise:
1 yellow onion, medium dice
4 celery ribs, medium dice
5 garlic cloves
2 cups chicken stock
 
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Sear: In a large skillet or non-stick pan, blend and heat oil over medium–medium high heat. Pat dry short ribs with paper towel on all sides. Once oil is hot, season short rib with salt and pepper and gently place in the pan to sear on all sides. Look to get a nice even browning on all sides. Once evenly brown, set aside to rest at least 10 minutes.

2. Marinate: While our short ribs rest, gather all marinade ingredients and whisk together in a mixing bowl. Place rested short ribs and marinade together in a large Ziplock bag, or in the mixing bowl covered with film wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours — preferably overnight.

3. Braise: Preheat oven to 275 F. Place all the braising ingredients in an 8x12-inch-casserole pan, then place short ribs and marinade in the pan. (The veggies act as a bed for the short rib to rest on so they’re not in direct contact with the bottom of the pan; the liquid should not submerge the short rib but reach at least halfway up the short rib.) Cover dish completely with film wrap, then again with tinfoil to ensure a tight seal. Place in the oven for 2.5–3 hours until fork-tender or 190 F on an instant-read thermometer. (Warning: Peel back cover slowly and carefully, and keep face and hands protected; steam will come out quickly!) If, on first check, the meat is not fall-apart tender or at correct temperature, tightly reseal the cover and put back in oven. Once the meat is ready, remove to a serving plate and allow to rest up to 20 minutes. 

4. For natural jus, place all the remaining liquid and veggies into blender with the lid cracked and a towel (both are critical to prevent a rapid expansion of the hot liquid). Blend on lowest setting, gradually increasing speed until smooth. Serve short rib on fried or white rice, smother with braising jus, and top with slaw.
 
ASIAN SLAW INGREDIENTS
3 cups Napa or green cabbage, shredded
1/2 cup red cabbage, shredded
1/2 cup carrot, shredded
2 tablespoons  rice vinegar
1 tablespoons  sesame oil
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, finely minced or grated
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped)
1 tablespoon sesame seeds (black, white, or both)
 
METHOD
Mix ingredients together by hand in a large bowl. Enjoy immediately or allow flavors to blend overnight.
 
Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant & Brewery, at 13512 Peninsula Dr., is closed, but you can help them re-open when the time comes by buying a Jolly Pumpkin gift card now. A $50 gift card purchase gets you an extra $10 gift card for free. Spend $100, and they’ll throw in a $25 gift card. Get yours at  www.jollypumpkin.com/traversecity.
 
 
2. The Riverside Inn's Morel and Ramp Risotto
Courtesy of Chef Christine Boerma, The Riverside Inn, Leland
When COVID-19 hit Italy this winter, The Riverside Inn’s longtime sous chef, Christine Boerma, was there — instructing students at her Alma Mater, the Italian Culinary Institute. As the severity of the new coronavirus overwhelmed the country, Christine was forced to cut her teaching short and return home to northern Michigan in March, where our shutdown was about to begin. Nevertheless, a silver lining: Shortly after her return, Boerma was promoted to executive chef.

In celebration of her return and promotion — as well as The Riv’s (remodeled and re-opened last summer following a devastating fire) — she shared a dish we think perfect for the times, a delicious balance of spring renewal and comfort: “I selected this one because I wanted to showcase two local and seasonal foods — and what better way to do that than risotto,” she said. Bonus: It includes a little trick with frozen butter she learned in Italy.
 
INGREDIENTS
Extra-virgin olive oil
10 ounces dried morels
20 ramps (or leeks)
4 cups Caranoli (also called Carnaroli) rice
¼ cup cubed frozen butter
1 cup grated parmesan
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
8 cups vegetable stock
¼ cup white wine
 
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Bring stock to a boil; add morels, bay leaf and thyme. Simmer 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, sauté sliced ramps in EVOO until soft (about 3 minutes). Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. After 45 minutes, remove morels, bay leaf, and thyme from stock. Chop morels. Discard bay leaf and thyme. (Keep your stock on simmer, with a ladle nearby, and your chopped morels, sautéed ramps, white wine, and grated parmesan within reach.)

4. Over medium-high heat, add your dry rice to a sauté pan and sauté until lightly toasted. Add white wine but do not immediately stir; let the alcohol dissipate, and then stir, adding a ladle or two of warm stock. As the rice absorbs the stock, continue adding stock and stirring.

5. After about 20 minutes, when your rice is al dente, add your morels and ramps, saving some ramps for garnish. Your rice should be slightly “soupy” by now.

6. Remove from heat and add frozen butter cubes. Toss the risotto or simply stir until incorporated. Sprinkle in grated parmesan and stir. (If your risotto tightens up, stir in more stock for creaminess.) Plate and garnish with remaining ramps.
 
On Thursday, April 30, The Riverside Inn, 302 E River St., in Leland, began offering carryout and curbside service; it runs 5pm–7:30pm Thursday–Saturdays until further notice. New weekly menus — regional, farm-to-table, and with a nod to Italian cuisine in honor of Christine's time abroad — will be posted at each Tuesday at theriverside-inn.com/Restaurant. Place your order by calling (231) 256-9971.
 

3. Stafford’s Oak-Planked Whitefish
Courtesy of Chef DJ Flynn, Stafford’s Hospitality, Petoskey
Stafford’s hotels and restaurants have been a backbone of the northern Michigan experience for tourists and locals alike since 1961. Perhaps not coincidentally, that was the same year this simple but utterly elevating whitefish preparation first appeared on its menu. Although it’s starred in many different dishes, its singular preparation has been appeared on all of Stafford’s menus — uninterrupted for nearly 60 years — until this spring, when Stafford’s properties closed this as a precautionary measure against COVID-19.

While the Stafford’s executive team is surveying guest expectations and contemplating plans for reopening, Corporate Executive Chef DJ Flynn graciously offered to share the group’s most enduring recipe, a taste of tradition to reassure us all that some of summer’s sweetest traditions might be temporarily out of sight but never out of reach.

INGREDIENTS
12 ounces whitefish
As needed spice mixture (We use salt, pepper and paprika.)
1 hardwood plank per fish (We get ours from Great Lakes Grilling Co.)
As needed drawn butter (with lemon zest, if desired)

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Place fish on lightly oiled plank and season with salt, pepper and paprika
2. Broil in a 400 F oven to desired doneness
3. Brush with drawn butter
4. Serve immediately with remoulade, tartar sauce, fresh lemon, and desired starch and vegetable
 
Stafford’s properties — Stafford’s Perry Hotel in Petoskey, Bay View Inn, Crooked Rover Lodge, Noggin Room Pub in Petoskey, Pier Restaurant in Harbor Springs, and Weathervane Restaurant in Charlevoix — remain temporarily closed, but you can find updates (and many more Stafford’s recipes, including the latest: Chef DJ’s insanely good cronuts!) by clicking on the Covid-19 update at www.Staffords.com.
 
4. Amical's Wild Ramp Vinaigrette & Pickled Ramps
Recipes courtesy of Chef Ben Hoxie, Amical, Traverse City
“Since we’re ready for spring, wild leeks are on our mind,” said Dave Denison, owner of Amical. And with just a little bit of digging, these verdant gems reaching out from the forest floor can easily be on your plate. Do like Amical Chef Ben Hoxie does, and blanch and puree them with Fustini’s white balsamic to craft a bright and beautiful vinaigrette to drizzle atop leafy salads or — as Denison says Amical will do the moment the local crop is ready — an asparagus salad.

Next, use the bulbs and stems that didn’t make it into the vinaigrette to create pickled ramps, a perfect accompaniment or garnish to perk up any spring dish you serve. (Note: To ensure future harvests, dig up only a few ramps per cluster of ramps you find growing.)
 
Ramp Vinaigrette
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds wild leeks (aka ramps)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
½ cup Fustini’s White Balsamic Vinegar
1 cup vegetable oil
½ cup olive oil
2 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper
 
1. Thoroughly clean ramps to remove all dirt and roots. Separate the greens from the bulbs and set bulbs aside for another use.
2. Blanch the green tops for 10 seconds in salted, boiling water and immediately shock in ice bath. Dry thoroughly. 
3. Place blanched greens in a stand-up blender with all ingredients except the oils.
4. Puree until completely smooth, then add oils slowly, allowing to fully emulsify. Add a little water if it seems to thick.
5. Check seasoning.
 
Pickled Ramps
INGREDIENTS
Ramp bulbs and stems reserved from vinaigrette
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
2 cup rice vinegar
3 tablespoons kosher salt
2 bay leaves
2 black peppercorns
2 teaspoons fennel seed
 
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Place clean ramp bulbs in a 2-quart container or in canning jars, leaving at least an inch of space at the top.
2. Bring all other ingredients to a boil and stir to dissolve.
3. Pour hot liquid over ramps and weigh them down in the container.
Allow to fully cool, then refrigerate overnight. Pickled ramps will keep for 2-3 weeks in the refrigerator.
 
 “These are uncertain times for many industries but particularly for hospitality,” said Denison. “We are all navigating the same stormy seas but most of us have different boats. This summer and the rest of 2020 will be challenging and changing. My team here is intact, and I feel fortunate to have them. They keep the hospitality fire burning with the desire to help others. We are ready to serve the community we love.”
On May 6, Amical, 229 E. Front St. in Traverse City,returned to serving its takeout menu. Pickup hours will run 3pm–8pm Wednesdays through Sundays. Find the menus online at www.amical.com.